Are your roosts equal heights?

[Flockincrazy]

mine are different heights because I have light weight chickens and heavy chickens and I don't want my heavy weights to hurt themselves getting up and down

 

[Ridgerunner]

My main roosts (two tree limbs) are equal heights. The way my coop is laid out that makes framing and cleaning easier.

My juvenile roost is lower, separated horizontally, and higher than the nests. I almost always have juveniles in the flock. This separate roost gives them a place to go that is not my nests until they mature enough to join the adults on the main roosts.

 

[Mamatomany123]

Mine are different heights. This allows for my babies to roost without the big girls picking on them.

 

[RumneyRoost]

I have a raised coop that is 4’x6’, plus nest boxes. So there isn’t a ton of room for the roosts.
Big door on one wall, nest boxes on one wall. Third wall has the roost (6’ long, 12” high) where they sleep.
Fourth wall has their pop door and a roost that lets them look out the window (3’ long, 12” high). No one sleeps there, but the boss girls wait there in the morning to yell at me through the window if I’m late letting them out.

The roosts are actually attached and form a T. I have six hens and they prefer to squish together instead of using the roost by the window. There isn’t any squabbling though, as long as my EE avoids my cream legbar.

 

[Hensatpadden]

I switched From two by twos to two by fours wide side up because some of the older hens were getting bumblefoot.
I have 15 hens of various ages. The buff Orpington prefers the floor maybe because she is too fat. The smaller breeds like Norwegian jerhon and Sicilian buttercup love to fly up high and perch on hanging milk crates. I added extra two by four sections poking out below the two doors. So everyone could have a place with plenty of room. Having the coop contained inside a big cage of hardware cloth provides safety from predators and also means I don’t have to close up the coop.

 

[mbailey78]

When we first built our coop there were roosts at different heights. For a while it was like WWE wrestling in there to fight to get the top bar. We switched to one height roost all the way around the coop and no more issues.

 

[CraftyHen]

The coop roosts are same height w/poop decks below because space limited where they could be installed.

 

[Trisseh]

Different heights, so the fat fluff ball silkies can get up there. Lol. There’s not a lot of wing clearance in my little coop either, so I wanted to make sure it was easy for all of them to get up there with minimal fuss.

 

[aart]

I switched From two by twos to two by fours wide side up because some of the older hens were getting bumblefoot.
I have 15 hens of various ages. The buff Orpington prefers the floor maybe because she is too fat. The smaller breeds like Norwegian jerhon and Sicilian buttercup love to fly up high and perch on hanging milk crates. I added extra two by four sections poking out below the two doors. So everyone could have a place with plenty of room. Having the coop contained inside a big cage of hardware cloth provides safety from predators and also means I don’t have to close up the coop.

Bumblefoot(staph infected foot wound) has nothing to do with roost size.

 

[Vicker]

Same height just worked best in the new coop. We had staggered ones in a much larger coop.