Turkeys, Guinea-fowl and Quail
TURKEYS
The beginning...
Turkeys are a lifelong commitment. These birds need the best care possible- always research the bird before adopting them into your farm. They usually cost $50 or more, depending on the breed you are purchasing. They are legal to own in the United States and around the world, however check your local regulations before owning them.
Housing
Turkeys are large birds; you need a large enclosure designed for them. You will need a minimum of 30 square feet of outdoor space per bird, with predator-proof fencing from all sides, as well as overhead. Dirt can be used as bedding for the enclosure, as well as straw or wood shavings. Be cautious of straw and wood shavings as small pieces may be inhaled by your birds and lead to lung damage. For a rafter (group of turkeys) of turkeys, you will need a much larger enclosure to suit their needs. A large barn or shed can be used as a coop for female turkeys, this is a consideration if you want to breed turkeys. You will need perches, logs, natural objects, food and water dishes for your enclosure to make your turkeys happy.
Feeding
Turkeys are omnivorous, so give them some quality feed (turkey feed), grit and fresh fruit and vegetables. For poults provide them with a commercial turkey starter feed containing around 30% protein. This feed is essential for their growth and development during the first few weeks of life As turkeys mature, switch to a turkey grower feed with a lower protein content, typically approximately 16%. This feed should be given from about 6 weeks of age until they are ready for processing or laying eggs. If you have turkey hens and plan to have them lay eggs, switch to a turkey layer feed that contains the necessary nutrients for egg production, including calcium. This is typically fed to mature hens. Always provide clean and fresh water to your turkeys. Water is essential for their digestion and overall health. Turkeys can consume grains like corn, wheat, barley and oats as part of their diet. However, these should be supplemental and not the primary source of nutrition. Turkeys can eat a variety of vegetables and fruits, such as leafy greens, carrots, pumpkin and apples, in moderation. These can provide additional nutrients and enrichment. Turkeys are natural foragers and enjoy eating insects and grubs. Allowing them access to grassy areas can help them find natural food sources. In some cases, you may need to provide supplements like grit (small stones) to help turkeys with digestion, especially if they are not allowed to forage freely. Do not feed turkeys processed meats, chocolate, avocado, rhubarb, nightshade, mouldy foods and medicated feeds, unless prescribed by a vet.
Enrichment
Turkeys, like many companion animals, including pheasants and other poultry, need enrichment to make them happy. Scatter grains, seeds or insects in their enclosure to encourage natural foraging behavior. Hang vegetables or fruits on strings or wires at various heights for turkeys to peck at and play with. Large balls or objects they can push and play with can provide entertainment. Mirrors can intrigue and entertain turkeys as they are curious about their reflection. Place logs, small stumps or branches in their enclosure for turkeys to perch on or scratch against. This also provides opportunities for exercise. Provide a dust bath area with fine sand or dust that turkeys can use for dusting, which helps keep their feathers clean and controls parasites. Plant native grasses, shrubs or small trees in their enclosure to create a more natural environment. Turkeys can seek shelter, forage and explore these areas.
They are social poultry birds. Keeping them in groups or pairs can provide them with social interaction and reduce stress. If possible, rotate their enclosure periodically to provide fresh ground for foraging and prevent soil depletion. Place simple obstacle courses or tunnels with logs, boards or PVC pipes for turkeys to explore and navigate. Hide food in puzzle toys or containers that turkeys must figure out how to open or manipulate to access the treats. Turkeys are curious about different sounds and objects. You can occasionally introduce mild, non-threatening noises or new visual stimuli to keep them engaged. Occasionally introduce new items, like colorful objects or different textures to their environment to pique their interest. Spend time interacting with your turkeys. They can be trained to respond to commands, which provides mental stimulation for both you and the birds.
Breeding
Turkeys need a ratio of 1 tom to every 10 hens to produce fertile eggs. Choose healthy, mature turkeys for breeding. Look for birds that are free from diseases, deformities or genetic defects. Select birds with desirable traits like good size and temperament. Avoid closely related turkeys to prevent inbreeding, as it can lead to health problems in the offspring. Provide a clean, dry, and well-ventilated housing for your turkeys. Ensure adequate space to prevent overcrowding. Keep the environment free from drafts, extreme temperatures, and humidity fluctuations, as these can negatively affect turkey reproduction. Control the lighting in the turkey house to simulate natural daylight hours. This helps regulate the turkeys' reproductive cycles. Gradually increase the daily light exposure to around 16 hours of light per day to encourage mating behavior and egg production. Introduce the tom and hen turkeys when they reach the appropriate age and size for breeding. Keep an eye on the turkeys to ensure that mating is taking place. Turkey mating involves the tom puffing up, displaying his feathers, and strutting in front of the hen. If the hen is receptive, she will squat down, allowing the tom to mount her. Once the hens lay eggs, collect them promptly to prevent damage or contamination. If you want to hatch the eggs, place them in a clean and appropriately humidified incubator at the correct temperature (usually around 37-37.8°C). Follow the manufacturer's guidelines for incubation. Maintain proper humidity and temperature during incubation.
Poult care
Poult is a term for a baby turkey. They are fragile, like any baby poultry bird. Therefore, they require special care as chicken and pheasant chicks and peachicks. Start by setting up a brooder, which is a warm and safe enclosure for the poults. However, you can alternatively raise poults in the outdoors in the turkey coop. A brooder can be a cardboard box, plastic container or a specially designed brooder box Maintain a consistent temperature in the brooder. Use a heat brooder to provide warmth. The initial temperature should be around 35-38°C for the first week and then gradually reduce it by 2-3°C per week until they are fully feathered. Line the brooder with clean and dry bedding material, such as straw or wood shavings. Change the bedding regularly to keep it clean and dry. Provide fresh, clean water in shallow containers that the poults can easily access. Use a poultry waterer to prevent them from drowning. Feed them with a high-quality turkey starter feed. This feed is specially formulated to meet the nutritional needs of young turkeys. You can also add some finely chopped greens or vegetables to their diet. Provide 24-hour light for the first few days to help the poults find food and water. Afterward, you can switch to a 16-hour light cycle. Keep detailed records for your poults as they grow up to be attractive turkeys.
Diseases
Like other poultry, turkeys are vulnerable to diseases including:
Warning: This section contains slaughtering turkeys. If you're sensitive or squeamish, skip this section.
Raising domestic turkeys for meat is a great way to have your Christmas or Thanksgiving roast. The most common colour for meat turkeys is white. Raise the turkeys like you would do until they're old enough (between 9 and 21 weeks old) to be culled for meat. It's like culling other poultry for your roast dish. You'll need a killing cone or killing board, clean equipment and a sharp knife. Carefully put the turkey upside down into the killing cone. Make sure the bird is properly restrained. Stun the turkey using a blunt object to make them unconscious, but alive. Cut the turkey's throat (jugular vein near the trachea) and let it bleed in the container below the killing cone. Boil the now deceased bird into boiling hot water for 1-2 minutes to pluck the feathers out, or use a plucking machine. Eviscerate and clean the bird thoroughly. Immediately chill the processed turkey in a cooler full of ice for future use.
Breed profile: Bronze
The Bronze (Bronze Broadbreast turkey) is a common heritage breed of turkey originating in England. This breed had dominated the turkey industry until the Broad Breasted White came to its place. Such birds of the Broad Breasted Bronze no longer bred naturally and artificial insemination was required for these turkeys. There are two types of Bronze: Standard and Broad-Breasted. The standard Bronze is listed as 'critical' in the ALBC (Livestock Conservancy) because of declining numbers, however the number of the Broad-Breasted variant remain unknown.
GUINEA-FOWL
The beginning...
Guinea-fowl usually costs $5-$10 dollars per keet (chick), and $20-$25 per adult, but that depends on the country you live in. You can get keets from most chicken hatcheries, so they will be plentiful in here. It is better to raise keets than adults, since they will fly away when you don't secure the coop properly or don't have a netted roof. There are many varieties of guinea-fowl, so some varieties are more expensive than others.
Housing
Your guinea-fowl will need an enclosure much larger than their bodies. A run that is 95cm in length and a coop that is 1m x 1m x 1m in size would be good for a small rasp (group of guinea-fowl) of guinea-fowl. These fowl are somewhat large, but the enclosure depends on the number of birds you are keeping. Add absorbent bedding such as wood shaving and straw in the enclosure. Make sure you have enough good ventilation to your enclosure to prevent moisture and mould from coming in. Normal chicken nest boxes or larger are used for your guinea-fowl to lay their eggs. However, some fowl do not like using nest boxes, they will lay their eggs from different places in the enclosure. You can even keep them free-range if you want.
Feeding
Guinea-fowl need to be fed every day in order to survive. They can be fed a high-quality commercial poultry feed specifically designed for game birds or poultry. These feeds are formulated to meet their nutritional needs at different stages of growth. In addition to commercial feed, you can supplement their diet with grains like corn, wheat, and millet. These grains can be given as treats but should not make up more than 10-20% of their diet. Guinea-fowl can eat a variety of fruits and vegetables, including leafy greens, carrots, apples, and berries. These should be given in moderation as treats. Guinea-fowl are excellent foragers and will happily eat insects, worms, and small invertebrates they find in the environment. This natural foraging behavior is good for their overall health. Provide them with grit or small stones to aid in digestion. Grit helps grind down food in their gizzard. Don't feed guinea-fowl avocado, chocolate, rhubarb, processed foods and spoiled eggs.
Enrichment
These polka-dotted birds are curious animals, provide them the best enrichment you can give to them. Provide mirrors for your birds to look at their reflection. Scatter bird feed to help them do their natural foraging behaviours. Hang pecking blocks or blocks with edible herbs from their enclosure. These not only provide a nutritional treat but also encourage pecking behaviours. If your guinea-fowl are in a larger, more naturalistic enclosure, consider planting native shrubs or providing bushes and tall grasses. These offer hiding places and encourage many natural behaviours. Provide a dust-bathing area for them by adding fine dirt or sand. Install wooden roosts and perches at various heights to allow them to perch from high places. Add a grazing area for your enclosure so your birds will look for grass seeds.
Breeding
Guinea-fowl are somewhat easy to breed if you have done your research. Breeding these birds are very good for your rasp of guinea-fowl and creating generations of birds from that group. Choose healthy, birds for breeding. They should be at least one year old. Select birds with desirable traits, such as good size, strong and disease-free bodies, and vibrant plumage. Ensure a balanced sex ratio, typically one male (cock) for every three to five females (hens). Provide a clean and well-maintained coop or enclosure with nesting boxes and roosting space. Provide adequate ventilation and protection from predators. Guinea-fowl are known to be independent and prefer to free-range during the day, so allow them access to a secure outdoor area. During the breeding season (usually in the spring), the males will display courtship behaviors, including loud calls and strutting. Guinea-fowl generally mate naturally when ready. Ensure that there is privacy in the nesting areas for successful mating. They often lay their eggs in hidden or secluded nests on the ground. Provide suitable nesting materials like straw or hay. Collect eggs daily to prevent them from getting dirty or damaged. Guinea fowl can be left to incubate their eggs naturally, or you can use an incubator. If you are using an incubator, maintain proper temperature (37-38°C) and humidity levels. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. The incubation period is approximately 26-28 days.
Keet care
Guinea-fowl keets are raised in a similar manner to other poultry young. Use a brooder box or area that is safe from drafts, predators and hotter or colder temperatures. Provide a heat source such as a heat lamp or brooder plate to maintain a temperature of around 35°C for the first week. Gradually reduce the temperature by 2-3°C each week until the keets are fully feathered. Use a soft and absorbent bedding material like wood shavings or straw to keep the brooder clean and dry. Provide a high-quality game bird starter feed with at least 24% protein. Crush the feed into smaller pieces for the first few days to make it easier for the keets to eat. Ensure access to clean, fresh water at all times. Use a shallow dish or chick waterer to prevent drowning. Ensure that the keets have enough space to move around. Crowding can lead to stress and aggression in your keets. Keep them in a brooder for the first 6-8 weeks before transitioning to an outdoor enclosure. Guinea-fowl keets are vulnerable to predators, so make sure the brooder or outdoor enclosure is secure with a cover or fencing. Raise the keets in a secure area until they are old enough to fend for themselves. Keep a close eye on the health of your keets. Watch for signs of illness, injury, or stress. Quarantine any new keets before introducing them to the existing rasp to prevent the spread of diseases. Guinea-fowl keets love to take dust baths to keep their feathers clean and free of parasites. Provide a shallow container with dust or sand for them to use.
Diseases
Like any other poultry, guinea-fowl can be susceptible to sometimes fatal diseases, so it's important to take your birds to the vet or poultry expert and see if they have any of these diseases:
QUAIL
The beginning...
Quail are easy to find in egg farms and poultry stores. They are generally cheaper than chickens and they cost $1-$5 or more, depending on the species you are looking after for and the age of the bird. It will also depend on the location you live in. Quail are popular for poultry keepers because of their small size and their dual purpose for eggs and meat.
Housing
The general rule of keeping quail is 1-2 square feet of space per bird in your enclosure or coop with 12 inches in height. Rabbit hutches can be converted into your quails' home if you're keeping a very small bevy (group of quail) of them. If you're keeping a larger bevy of quail, consider keeping them in a large chicken enclosure with a coop. A large enclosure will be required for that bevy, it gives them enough space to roam. You can keep a pair of quail in a normal, large aviary if you're picking some smaller species, such as Japanese quail and bobwhite quail.
Feeding
There are many good foods to feed your quail. Commercial quail feed is the most convenient and balanced option. You can find quail-specific feeds designed for different stages of their life, such as starter, grower and layer feeds. Game bird feed is another suitable option, as it's formulated for gamebirds such as quail and pheasants. It often contains higher protein levels for quail. Quail require a high-protein diet, especially during their growing and laying periods. You can include seeds like millet, sunflower seeds and others, and cracked corn in their diet. Quail are natural insect foragers, and you can supplement their diet with insects like mealworms, crickets and sometimes earthworms. These all provide essential protein. Offer a variety of leafy greens like kale, spinach, lettuce, and dandelion greens. These provide vitamins and minerals. You can give them small quantities of kitchen scraps like vegetable peels, but avoid anything toxic or spoiled. Provide tiny pebbles or commercial poultry grit to help quail grind their food in their gizzard. Ensure quail have access to clean and fresh water at all times. Do not feed quail raw beans, avocado, chocolate, high fat and processed food, large amounts of bread and garlic.
Enrichment
Quail are shy but curious, so provide them some enrichment in their enclosure. Provide a substrate in their enclosure that mimics their natural environment. A mix of sand and soil can be used. Quail enjoy dust bathing, which helps keep their feathers and skin healthy. Scatter their food on the ground or hide it in various places around their enclosure. This encourages natural foraging behavior. You can also use foraging toys or puzzle feeders designed for birds. Add plants, shrubs or grasses to their enclosure to provide hiding spots and visual barriers. This gives them a sense of security and makes the environment more interesting. Install branches or logs of different sizes and heights for perching and roosting. This allows them to rest and exercise their foot muscles. Provide nesting materials like straw, hay or leaves so they can engage in nesting. This is especially important if you're keeping quail for breeding purposes. Some quail can be curious about mirrors, and you could place one in their enclosure for them to investigate. Additionally, you can offer bird-safe toys like hanging mirrors or soft toys to peck at and interact with. Quail are social birds and often thrive when kept in small bevies. Providing them with companions of their own species can reduce stress and loneliness. Occasionally change the layout of their enclosure or add new items to keep things fresh and interesting for them. Playing recordings of natural sounds like bird calls or soft running water can help create a more enriching environment. Ensure that the enrichment items and materials you provide are safe for quail to interact with. Avoid any toxic substances or small objects that could be ingested.
Breeding
Set up the breeding enclosure 2 weeks before the breeding season (spring). Put it in a peaceful location away from predators. Choose healthy, disease-free quail for breeding. Look for birds that are active, alert, and free from any obvious signs of illness. It's also a good idea to have a balanced ratio of males to females (usually one male for every 2-3 females). Provide a suitable enclosure for your quail. Quail require nesting boxes or areas where they can lay their eggs. These boxes should be filled with clean, dry nesting material, such as straw, hay or shredded paper. Maintain proper lighting and temperature conditions. Quail generally require 14-16 hours of light per day to stimulate egg production. The temperature should be kept between 10-24°C depending on the quail species. Quail are known for their elaborate courtship displays. You'll often see the males displaying their feathers and making their distinctive calls to attract females. Ensure that the males have ample opportunity to mate with the females. Quail typically lay their eggs in the morning. Eggs should be collected daily to prevent them from getting dirty or damaged. Store them in a cool and dry place until you're ready to incubate them. If you want to hatch the eggs, you can use an incubator. The incubation period for quail eggs is usually around 17-18 days. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific incubator model. Otherwise, you can let the female quail hatch her eggs all by herself. Keep detailed records of your breeding activities, including mating dates, egg production, hatch rates and any health issues. This information can be valuable for improving your quail breeding program.
Chick care
Quail chicks are slightly smaller than chicken chicks or peachicks. Quail chicks need a warm and secure environment, known as a brooder. Use a plastic or wooden box with high sides to prevent them from escaping and to retain heat. Line the bottom with a layer of clean, dry bedding, such as pine shavings or paper towels. They require a consistent source of heat to maintain their body temperature. A brooder pad is ideal. Hang it securely above one end of the brooder. Maintain a temperature of around 35-37.8°C for the first week and then gradually reduce it by about 2.8°C each week until they are fully feathered (usually around 4-6 weeks). Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature inside the brooder regularly. Watch the chicks' behaviour. If they huddle together, they may be too cold, and if they avoid the heat source, they may be too hot. Quail chicks need easy access to clean, fresh water. Use shallow waterers to prevent drowning. Feed them a high-quality game bird or quail starter feed that contains about 24-28% protein. You can also offer crushed eggshells or commercial oyster shell for calcium. Initially, quail chicks should be fed a high-protein starter feed 24 hours a day. As they grow you can reduce feeding times to 12-14 hours per day. Provide small, shallow dishes for feed to minimize waste and make it easier for the chicks to eat. Keep an eye on the chicks for any signs of illness or distress, such as listlessness, lethargy or pasty bottom (blockage of their vent with faeces). Address any issues such as these promptly. Regularly clean and change the bedding to maintain a clean and hygienic brooder. Clean the water and feed containers daily to prevent contamination. As quail chicks grow, they will need more space. Gradually increase the size of their brooder to prevent overcrowding. Handle the chicks gently and interact with them regularly to help them become more comfortable around people. When the chicks are fully feathered and the weather is appropriate, usually around 4-6 weeks old, you can transition them to an outdoor enclosure or coop.
Diseases
Quail are also susceptible to diseases like any poultry. Some diseases can be fatal to quail. Diseases that affect quail include:
Species profile: Japanese quail
The Japanese quail is an Old World Quail commonly found in captivity. These quails make popular pets because of their temperament, handiness and tend to lay a lot of eggs. They are inexpensive to keep and great for beginners too. They inhabit East Asia, including China, Japan, South Korea and eastern Russia. These quail are related to the common (European) quail because they are similar in colour and markings.
The beginning...
Turkeys are a lifelong commitment. These birds need the best care possible- always research the bird before adopting them into your farm. They usually cost $50 or more, depending on the breed you are purchasing. They are legal to own in the United States and around the world, however check your local regulations before owning them.
Housing
Turkeys are large birds; you need a large enclosure designed for them. You will need a minimum of 30 square feet of outdoor space per bird, with predator-proof fencing from all sides, as well as overhead. Dirt can be used as bedding for the enclosure, as well as straw or wood shavings. Be cautious of straw and wood shavings as small pieces may be inhaled by your birds and lead to lung damage. For a rafter (group of turkeys) of turkeys, you will need a much larger enclosure to suit their needs. A large barn or shed can be used as a coop for female turkeys, this is a consideration if you want to breed turkeys. You will need perches, logs, natural objects, food and water dishes for your enclosure to make your turkeys happy.
Feeding
Turkeys are omnivorous, so give them some quality feed (turkey feed), grit and fresh fruit and vegetables. For poults provide them with a commercial turkey starter feed containing around 30% protein. This feed is essential for their growth and development during the first few weeks of life As turkeys mature, switch to a turkey grower feed with a lower protein content, typically approximately 16%. This feed should be given from about 6 weeks of age until they are ready for processing or laying eggs. If you have turkey hens and plan to have them lay eggs, switch to a turkey layer feed that contains the necessary nutrients for egg production, including calcium. This is typically fed to mature hens. Always provide clean and fresh water to your turkeys. Water is essential for their digestion and overall health. Turkeys can consume grains like corn, wheat, barley and oats as part of their diet. However, these should be supplemental and not the primary source of nutrition. Turkeys can eat a variety of vegetables and fruits, such as leafy greens, carrots, pumpkin and apples, in moderation. These can provide additional nutrients and enrichment. Turkeys are natural foragers and enjoy eating insects and grubs. Allowing them access to grassy areas can help them find natural food sources. In some cases, you may need to provide supplements like grit (small stones) to help turkeys with digestion, especially if they are not allowed to forage freely. Do not feed turkeys processed meats, chocolate, avocado, rhubarb, nightshade, mouldy foods and medicated feeds, unless prescribed by a vet.
Enrichment
Turkeys, like many companion animals, including pheasants and other poultry, need enrichment to make them happy. Scatter grains, seeds or insects in their enclosure to encourage natural foraging behavior. Hang vegetables or fruits on strings or wires at various heights for turkeys to peck at and play with. Large balls or objects they can push and play with can provide entertainment. Mirrors can intrigue and entertain turkeys as they are curious about their reflection. Place logs, small stumps or branches in their enclosure for turkeys to perch on or scratch against. This also provides opportunities for exercise. Provide a dust bath area with fine sand or dust that turkeys can use for dusting, which helps keep their feathers clean and controls parasites. Plant native grasses, shrubs or small trees in their enclosure to create a more natural environment. Turkeys can seek shelter, forage and explore these areas.
They are social poultry birds. Keeping them in groups or pairs can provide them with social interaction and reduce stress. If possible, rotate their enclosure periodically to provide fresh ground for foraging and prevent soil depletion. Place simple obstacle courses or tunnels with logs, boards or PVC pipes for turkeys to explore and navigate. Hide food in puzzle toys or containers that turkeys must figure out how to open or manipulate to access the treats. Turkeys are curious about different sounds and objects. You can occasionally introduce mild, non-threatening noises or new visual stimuli to keep them engaged. Occasionally introduce new items, like colorful objects or different textures to their environment to pique their interest. Spend time interacting with your turkeys. They can be trained to respond to commands, which provides mental stimulation for both you and the birds.
Breeding
Turkeys need a ratio of 1 tom to every 10 hens to produce fertile eggs. Choose healthy, mature turkeys for breeding. Look for birds that are free from diseases, deformities or genetic defects. Select birds with desirable traits like good size and temperament. Avoid closely related turkeys to prevent inbreeding, as it can lead to health problems in the offspring. Provide a clean, dry, and well-ventilated housing for your turkeys. Ensure adequate space to prevent overcrowding. Keep the environment free from drafts, extreme temperatures, and humidity fluctuations, as these can negatively affect turkey reproduction. Control the lighting in the turkey house to simulate natural daylight hours. This helps regulate the turkeys' reproductive cycles. Gradually increase the daily light exposure to around 16 hours of light per day to encourage mating behavior and egg production. Introduce the tom and hen turkeys when they reach the appropriate age and size for breeding. Keep an eye on the turkeys to ensure that mating is taking place. Turkey mating involves the tom puffing up, displaying his feathers, and strutting in front of the hen. If the hen is receptive, she will squat down, allowing the tom to mount her. Once the hens lay eggs, collect them promptly to prevent damage or contamination. If you want to hatch the eggs, place them in a clean and appropriately humidified incubator at the correct temperature (usually around 37-37.8°C). Follow the manufacturer's guidelines for incubation. Maintain proper humidity and temperature during incubation.
Poult care
Poult is a term for a baby turkey. They are fragile, like any baby poultry bird. Therefore, they require special care as chicken and pheasant chicks and peachicks. Start by setting up a brooder, which is a warm and safe enclosure for the poults. However, you can alternatively raise poults in the outdoors in the turkey coop. A brooder can be a cardboard box, plastic container or a specially designed brooder box Maintain a consistent temperature in the brooder. Use a heat brooder to provide warmth. The initial temperature should be around 35-38°C for the first week and then gradually reduce it by 2-3°C per week until they are fully feathered. Line the brooder with clean and dry bedding material, such as straw or wood shavings. Change the bedding regularly to keep it clean and dry. Provide fresh, clean water in shallow containers that the poults can easily access. Use a poultry waterer to prevent them from drowning. Feed them with a high-quality turkey starter feed. This feed is specially formulated to meet the nutritional needs of young turkeys. You can also add some finely chopped greens or vegetables to their diet. Provide 24-hour light for the first few days to help the poults find food and water. Afterward, you can switch to a 16-hour light cycle. Keep detailed records for your poults as they grow up to be attractive turkeys.
Diseases
Like other poultry, turkeys are vulnerable to diseases including:
- Mycoplasma gallisepticum (MG): This is a bacterial infection that primarily affects the respiratory system of turkeys. Infected birds may exhibit respiratory signs such as sneezing, coughing, and nasal discharge.
- Coccidiosis: Coccidia are parasitic protozoa that can infect the intestines of turkeys, causing symptoms like diarrhoea, reduced growth, and sometimes death.
- Aspergillosis: This fungal infection is caused by the inhalation of Aspergillus spores. It can affect the respiratory system and lead to respiratory distress and even death.
- Newcastle disease: Although more commonly associated with chickens, turkeys can also be affected by Newcastle disease, which is caused by a paramyxovirus. Infected birds may show respiratory, nervous system and digestive system signs, and it can be highly contagious.
- Avian influenza: Avian influenza viruses can infect turkeys, leading to respiratory and digestive symptoms. Some strains of avian influenza can be highly contagious and may pose a risk to both poultry and humans.
- Turkey rhinotracheitis (TRT): This viral disease primarily affects the respiratory system of turkeys, leading to nasal discharge, coughing and sneezing. It can negatively impact growth and egg production.
- Infectious bronchitis: This viral disease primarily affects the respiratory and reproductive systems of turkeys. Symptoms may include respiratory distress and poor egg quality.
- Erysipelas: Caused by the bacterium Erysipelothrix rhusiopathiae, this disease can cause skin lesions, joint inflammation and sometimes sudden death in turkeys.
- Salmonellosis: Various salmonella strains can infect turkeys, leading to symptoms such as diarrhoea, dehydration and sometimes death. It can also be a concern from a food safety perspective.
- Turkey enteritis complex (TEC): TEC is a collective term for a group of viral and bacterial infections that affect the gastrointestinal tract of turkeys. It can lead to diarrhea, reduced growth and death.
Warning: This section contains slaughtering turkeys. If you're sensitive or squeamish, skip this section.
Raising domestic turkeys for meat is a great way to have your Christmas or Thanksgiving roast. The most common colour for meat turkeys is white. Raise the turkeys like you would do until they're old enough (between 9 and 21 weeks old) to be culled for meat. It's like culling other poultry for your roast dish. You'll need a killing cone or killing board, clean equipment and a sharp knife. Carefully put the turkey upside down into the killing cone. Make sure the bird is properly restrained. Stun the turkey using a blunt object to make them unconscious, but alive. Cut the turkey's throat (jugular vein near the trachea) and let it bleed in the container below the killing cone. Boil the now deceased bird into boiling hot water for 1-2 minutes to pluck the feathers out, or use a plucking machine. Eviscerate and clean the bird thoroughly. Immediately chill the processed turkey in a cooler full of ice for future use.
Breed profile: Bronze
The Bronze (Bronze Broadbreast turkey) is a common heritage breed of turkey originating in England. This breed had dominated the turkey industry until the Broad Breasted White came to its place. Such birds of the Broad Breasted Bronze no longer bred naturally and artificial insemination was required for these turkeys. There are two types of Bronze: Standard and Broad-Breasted. The standard Bronze is listed as 'critical' in the ALBC (Livestock Conservancy) because of declining numbers, however the number of the Broad-Breasted variant remain unknown.
GUINEA-FOWL
The beginning...
Guinea-fowl usually costs $5-$10 dollars per keet (chick), and $20-$25 per adult, but that depends on the country you live in. You can get keets from most chicken hatcheries, so they will be plentiful in here. It is better to raise keets than adults, since they will fly away when you don't secure the coop properly or don't have a netted roof. There are many varieties of guinea-fowl, so some varieties are more expensive than others.
Housing
Your guinea-fowl will need an enclosure much larger than their bodies. A run that is 95cm in length and a coop that is 1m x 1m x 1m in size would be good for a small rasp (group of guinea-fowl) of guinea-fowl. These fowl are somewhat large, but the enclosure depends on the number of birds you are keeping. Add absorbent bedding such as wood shaving and straw in the enclosure. Make sure you have enough good ventilation to your enclosure to prevent moisture and mould from coming in. Normal chicken nest boxes or larger are used for your guinea-fowl to lay their eggs. However, some fowl do not like using nest boxes, they will lay their eggs from different places in the enclosure. You can even keep them free-range if you want.
Feeding
Guinea-fowl need to be fed every day in order to survive. They can be fed a high-quality commercial poultry feed specifically designed for game birds or poultry. These feeds are formulated to meet their nutritional needs at different stages of growth. In addition to commercial feed, you can supplement their diet with grains like corn, wheat, and millet. These grains can be given as treats but should not make up more than 10-20% of their diet. Guinea-fowl can eat a variety of fruits and vegetables, including leafy greens, carrots, apples, and berries. These should be given in moderation as treats. Guinea-fowl are excellent foragers and will happily eat insects, worms, and small invertebrates they find in the environment. This natural foraging behavior is good for their overall health. Provide them with grit or small stones to aid in digestion. Grit helps grind down food in their gizzard. Don't feed guinea-fowl avocado, chocolate, rhubarb, processed foods and spoiled eggs.
Enrichment
These polka-dotted birds are curious animals, provide them the best enrichment you can give to them. Provide mirrors for your birds to look at their reflection. Scatter bird feed to help them do their natural foraging behaviours. Hang pecking blocks or blocks with edible herbs from their enclosure. These not only provide a nutritional treat but also encourage pecking behaviours. If your guinea-fowl are in a larger, more naturalistic enclosure, consider planting native shrubs or providing bushes and tall grasses. These offer hiding places and encourage many natural behaviours. Provide a dust-bathing area for them by adding fine dirt or sand. Install wooden roosts and perches at various heights to allow them to perch from high places. Add a grazing area for your enclosure so your birds will look for grass seeds.
Breeding
Guinea-fowl are somewhat easy to breed if you have done your research. Breeding these birds are very good for your rasp of guinea-fowl and creating generations of birds from that group. Choose healthy, birds for breeding. They should be at least one year old. Select birds with desirable traits, such as good size, strong and disease-free bodies, and vibrant plumage. Ensure a balanced sex ratio, typically one male (cock) for every three to five females (hens). Provide a clean and well-maintained coop or enclosure with nesting boxes and roosting space. Provide adequate ventilation and protection from predators. Guinea-fowl are known to be independent and prefer to free-range during the day, so allow them access to a secure outdoor area. During the breeding season (usually in the spring), the males will display courtship behaviors, including loud calls and strutting. Guinea-fowl generally mate naturally when ready. Ensure that there is privacy in the nesting areas for successful mating. They often lay their eggs in hidden or secluded nests on the ground. Provide suitable nesting materials like straw or hay. Collect eggs daily to prevent them from getting dirty or damaged. Guinea fowl can be left to incubate their eggs naturally, or you can use an incubator. If you are using an incubator, maintain proper temperature (37-38°C) and humidity levels. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. The incubation period is approximately 26-28 days.
Keet care
Guinea-fowl keets are raised in a similar manner to other poultry young. Use a brooder box or area that is safe from drafts, predators and hotter or colder temperatures. Provide a heat source such as a heat lamp or brooder plate to maintain a temperature of around 35°C for the first week. Gradually reduce the temperature by 2-3°C each week until the keets are fully feathered. Use a soft and absorbent bedding material like wood shavings or straw to keep the brooder clean and dry. Provide a high-quality game bird starter feed with at least 24% protein. Crush the feed into smaller pieces for the first few days to make it easier for the keets to eat. Ensure access to clean, fresh water at all times. Use a shallow dish or chick waterer to prevent drowning. Ensure that the keets have enough space to move around. Crowding can lead to stress and aggression in your keets. Keep them in a brooder for the first 6-8 weeks before transitioning to an outdoor enclosure. Guinea-fowl keets are vulnerable to predators, so make sure the brooder or outdoor enclosure is secure with a cover or fencing. Raise the keets in a secure area until they are old enough to fend for themselves. Keep a close eye on the health of your keets. Watch for signs of illness, injury, or stress. Quarantine any new keets before introducing them to the existing rasp to prevent the spread of diseases. Guinea-fowl keets love to take dust baths to keep their feathers clean and free of parasites. Provide a shallow container with dust or sand for them to use.
Diseases
Like any other poultry, guinea-fowl can be susceptible to sometimes fatal diseases, so it's important to take your birds to the vet or poultry expert and see if they have any of these diseases:
- Newcastle disease: Newcastle disease is a highly contagious viral disease that affects a wide range of birds and poultry, including guinea-fowl. Symptoms include respiratory distress, nervous system signs and a drop in egg production. Vaccination is essential to prevent Newcastle disease.
- Avian influenza (bird flu): Avian influenza is another viral disease that can affect guinea-fowl and other poultry. It can cause a wide range of symptoms, including respiratory distress, swelling of the head, neck and eyes, and a drop in egg production. There are different strains of avian influenza, some of which can be highly pathogenic. Biosecurity measures and vaccination can help prevent its spread.
- Coccidiosis: Coccidiosis is a parasitic disease caused by protozoa. It can affect the digestive system of guinea-fowl, leading to symptoms like diarrhoea, weight loss and reduced growth. Good sanitation and the use of coccidiosis medications or preventatives can help control this disease.
- Blackhead (histomoniasis): Blackhead is a disease caused by the protozoan parasite Histomonas meleagridis. It can affect their liver and cecum, leading to symptoms like listlessness, droopiness and greenish-black diarrhoea. Preventing contact with infected guinea-fowl and maintaining good hygiene can help prevent this disease.
- Erysipelas: Erysipelas is a bacterial infection caused by Erysipelothrix rhusiopathiae. It can lead to symptoms such as lameness, some swollen joints and skin lesions. Proper sanitation and antibiotic treatment can be used to manage Erysipelas.
- Fowl cholera: Fowl cholera is caused by the bacterium Pasteurella multocida. It can result in symptoms such as respiratory distress, nasal discharge and swollen joints. Good biosecurity practices and vaccination can help prevent fowl cholera.
- Mycoplasma infections: Mycoplasma gallisepticum and Mycoplasma synoviae are two common Mycoplasma species that can affect many poultry, including guinea-fowl. They can cause respiratory problems, swollen sinuses and decreased egg production. Good biosecurity and testing for Mycoplasma infections can be essential for prevention.
- External parasites: Guinea-fowl can also suffer from external parasites such as mites and lice, which can cause skin irritation and feather loss. Regular inspection and appropriate treatments are necessary to control these parasites.
- Internal parasites: Internal parasites like worms, for example, roundworms and tapeworms, can affect guinea-fowls' digestive health. Deworming and good sanitation practices can help prevent internal parasitic infections in guinea-fowl.
- Coryza: This bacterial infection can cause nasal discharge, swollen eyes and difficulty breathing.
QUAIL
The beginning...
Quail are easy to find in egg farms and poultry stores. They are generally cheaper than chickens and they cost $1-$5 or more, depending on the species you are looking after for and the age of the bird. It will also depend on the location you live in. Quail are popular for poultry keepers because of their small size and their dual purpose for eggs and meat.
Housing
The general rule of keeping quail is 1-2 square feet of space per bird in your enclosure or coop with 12 inches in height. Rabbit hutches can be converted into your quails' home if you're keeping a very small bevy (group of quail) of them. If you're keeping a larger bevy of quail, consider keeping them in a large chicken enclosure with a coop. A large enclosure will be required for that bevy, it gives them enough space to roam. You can keep a pair of quail in a normal, large aviary if you're picking some smaller species, such as Japanese quail and bobwhite quail.
Feeding
There are many good foods to feed your quail. Commercial quail feed is the most convenient and balanced option. You can find quail-specific feeds designed for different stages of their life, such as starter, grower and layer feeds. Game bird feed is another suitable option, as it's formulated for gamebirds such as quail and pheasants. It often contains higher protein levels for quail. Quail require a high-protein diet, especially during their growing and laying periods. You can include seeds like millet, sunflower seeds and others, and cracked corn in their diet. Quail are natural insect foragers, and you can supplement their diet with insects like mealworms, crickets and sometimes earthworms. These all provide essential protein. Offer a variety of leafy greens like kale, spinach, lettuce, and dandelion greens. These provide vitamins and minerals. You can give them small quantities of kitchen scraps like vegetable peels, but avoid anything toxic or spoiled. Provide tiny pebbles or commercial poultry grit to help quail grind their food in their gizzard. Ensure quail have access to clean and fresh water at all times. Do not feed quail raw beans, avocado, chocolate, high fat and processed food, large amounts of bread and garlic.
Enrichment
Quail are shy but curious, so provide them some enrichment in their enclosure. Provide a substrate in their enclosure that mimics their natural environment. A mix of sand and soil can be used. Quail enjoy dust bathing, which helps keep their feathers and skin healthy. Scatter their food on the ground or hide it in various places around their enclosure. This encourages natural foraging behavior. You can also use foraging toys or puzzle feeders designed for birds. Add plants, shrubs or grasses to their enclosure to provide hiding spots and visual barriers. This gives them a sense of security and makes the environment more interesting. Install branches or logs of different sizes and heights for perching and roosting. This allows them to rest and exercise their foot muscles. Provide nesting materials like straw, hay or leaves so they can engage in nesting. This is especially important if you're keeping quail for breeding purposes. Some quail can be curious about mirrors, and you could place one in their enclosure for them to investigate. Additionally, you can offer bird-safe toys like hanging mirrors or soft toys to peck at and interact with. Quail are social birds and often thrive when kept in small bevies. Providing them with companions of their own species can reduce stress and loneliness. Occasionally change the layout of their enclosure or add new items to keep things fresh and interesting for them. Playing recordings of natural sounds like bird calls or soft running water can help create a more enriching environment. Ensure that the enrichment items and materials you provide are safe for quail to interact with. Avoid any toxic substances or small objects that could be ingested.
Breeding
Set up the breeding enclosure 2 weeks before the breeding season (spring). Put it in a peaceful location away from predators. Choose healthy, disease-free quail for breeding. Look for birds that are active, alert, and free from any obvious signs of illness. It's also a good idea to have a balanced ratio of males to females (usually one male for every 2-3 females). Provide a suitable enclosure for your quail. Quail require nesting boxes or areas where they can lay their eggs. These boxes should be filled with clean, dry nesting material, such as straw, hay or shredded paper. Maintain proper lighting and temperature conditions. Quail generally require 14-16 hours of light per day to stimulate egg production. The temperature should be kept between 10-24°C depending on the quail species. Quail are known for their elaborate courtship displays. You'll often see the males displaying their feathers and making their distinctive calls to attract females. Ensure that the males have ample opportunity to mate with the females. Quail typically lay their eggs in the morning. Eggs should be collected daily to prevent them from getting dirty or damaged. Store them in a cool and dry place until you're ready to incubate them. If you want to hatch the eggs, you can use an incubator. The incubation period for quail eggs is usually around 17-18 days. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific incubator model. Otherwise, you can let the female quail hatch her eggs all by herself. Keep detailed records of your breeding activities, including mating dates, egg production, hatch rates and any health issues. This information can be valuable for improving your quail breeding program.
Chick care
Quail chicks are slightly smaller than chicken chicks or peachicks. Quail chicks need a warm and secure environment, known as a brooder. Use a plastic or wooden box with high sides to prevent them from escaping and to retain heat. Line the bottom with a layer of clean, dry bedding, such as pine shavings or paper towels. They require a consistent source of heat to maintain their body temperature. A brooder pad is ideal. Hang it securely above one end of the brooder. Maintain a temperature of around 35-37.8°C for the first week and then gradually reduce it by about 2.8°C each week until they are fully feathered (usually around 4-6 weeks). Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature inside the brooder regularly. Watch the chicks' behaviour. If they huddle together, they may be too cold, and if they avoid the heat source, they may be too hot. Quail chicks need easy access to clean, fresh water. Use shallow waterers to prevent drowning. Feed them a high-quality game bird or quail starter feed that contains about 24-28% protein. You can also offer crushed eggshells or commercial oyster shell for calcium. Initially, quail chicks should be fed a high-protein starter feed 24 hours a day. As they grow you can reduce feeding times to 12-14 hours per day. Provide small, shallow dishes for feed to minimize waste and make it easier for the chicks to eat. Keep an eye on the chicks for any signs of illness or distress, such as listlessness, lethargy or pasty bottom (blockage of their vent with faeces). Address any issues such as these promptly. Regularly clean and change the bedding to maintain a clean and hygienic brooder. Clean the water and feed containers daily to prevent contamination. As quail chicks grow, they will need more space. Gradually increase the size of their brooder to prevent overcrowding. Handle the chicks gently and interact with them regularly to help them become more comfortable around people. When the chicks are fully feathered and the weather is appropriate, usually around 4-6 weeks old, you can transition them to an outdoor enclosure or coop.
Diseases
Quail are also susceptible to diseases like any poultry. Some diseases can be fatal to quail. Diseases that affect quail include:
- Coccidiosis: This is one of the most common and economically significant diseases in quail farming. It is caused by protozoan parasites of the genus Eimeria. Symptoms include diarrhoea, weight loss and reduced egg production.
- Respiratory infections: Quail can suffer from respiratory diseases, including chronic respiratory disease (CRD) and infectious bronchitis. Symptoms include coughing, sneezing, nasal discharge and decreased egg production.
- Newcastle disease: This is a highly contagious viral disease that affects a wide range of poultry, including quail. Symptoms include respiratory distress, nervous signs and a drop in egg production.
- Avian influenza: Avian influenza is a highly contagious viral disease that can infect quail. Symptoms vary but can include respiratory signs, decreased egg production and high mortality rates.
- Botulism: Quail can contract botulism from contaminated food or water. This can lead to paralysis, weakness, and death.
- Salmonellosis: This bacterial infection can affect quails and is a concern for public health as well. Symptoms include diarrhea, lethargy, and decreased egg production.
- Egg-bound: Sometimes, quail can experience difficulties laying eggs, leading to egg-binding. This condition can be life-threatening and requires prompt intervention.
- Gout: Gout can occur in quail due to a diet high in purines, which can lead to the accumulation of uric acid crystals in the joints and organs. This can result in lameness and decreased mobility.
- Parasitic infestations: Quail can suffer from various external and internal parasites, such as mites, some lice and internal worms. These parasites can lead to a range of health problems.
- Heat stress: Quail are sensitive to heat stress, which can lead to decreased egg production and increased mortality. Proper ventilation and cooling measures are essential to prevent this condition.
Species profile: Japanese quail
The Japanese quail is an Old World Quail commonly found in captivity. These quails make popular pets because of their temperament, handiness and tend to lay a lot of eggs. They are inexpensive to keep and great for beginners too. They inhabit East Asia, including China, Japan, South Korea and eastern Russia. These quail are related to the common (European) quail because they are similar in colour and markings.
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