Caged Birds (Pigeons, Australian Finches and Australian Parrots)
PIGEONS
The beginning...
You can adopt pigeons or buy them for a breeder-these are the two best methods of purchasing pigeons. Research the pigeon breed you are going to choose. Both of these methods cost $50-$400 depending on which breeder or shelter you are getting them from. It is important to research any breeder or shelter before purchasing pigeons. Initial setup and supplies cost $150 or more. Health care usually cost $10-$40 per month. Maintenance would cost $5-$20 per month. Pigeons are inexpensive to own and care for. Start by researching different pigeon breeds and their characteristics. Some common breeds kept as pets include homing pigeons, fancy pigeons and utility pigeons. Each breed has their own unique traits and requirements.
How to make a dovecote
You will need a dovecote or pigeon loft as your housing requirements for your birds. You can build a dovecote on the farmyard if you're handy. The size of the dovecote depends on how many pigeons you are keeping. Always research the design before building it. Here's how to build a dovecote:
Colouration
Domestic pigeons have a lot of colouration depending on the type, breed and age of the bird. Solid colours include black, red, white, blue and grey, while there are different patterns such as a checkered pattern, 'tiger' stripes on the wings and barless pigeons. Some domestics have feathers with iridescent or metallic qualities, similar to those found in wild pigeons. These feathers can shimmer and change color in different lighting conditions. Many of these birds have complex combinations, with patterns unique to the animal.
Breeding
Pigeons are easy to breed. There are many steps of pigeon breeding including:
Squeakers require special care, as they are small and fragile to handle. Wash your hands thoroughly and wear disposable gloves when handling the baby pigeons to prevent any potential disease transmission. Place the pigeon squeakers in a clean, dry, and well-ventilated container like a cardboard box or a plastic tub with holes for air circulation. Line the container with soft, clean bedding, such as paper towels or tissues. Pigeon squeakers cannot regulate their body temperature well, so they need to be kept warm. Use a heating pad set on low or a heat lamp to maintain a temperature of around 35°C. Ensure that there's a warm side and a cooler side in the container so that the pigeons can move to the temperature they prefer. Domestic pigeon squeakers require a different diet. You should feed them a specially formulated baby pigeon or dove hand-feeding formula, which is available at most pet stores. Use a syringe or a small spoon to feed them. Make sure the food is at the right temperature, around 40°C. Follow the instructions on the hand-feeding formula packaging for the appropriate feeding schedule and quantity. Alongside feeding formula, provide fresh, clean water in a shallow dish. Pigeon squeakers can drink water from an early age. Pigeon squeakers need to be fed every 2-3 hours during the day. As they grow, you can gradually increase the time between feedings. After each feeding, use a damp cloth or cotton ball to gently stimulate their cloaca (the opening through which they excrete waste) to encourage them to defecate. This mimics the actions of their parents, who usually stimulate them to eliminate wastage. Clean the container regularly to maintain a hygienic environment. Keep a close eye on the pigeon squeakers' health. Look for any signs of illness, such as lethargy, fluffed feathers, discharge from the eyes and beak or difficulty breathing. If you notice any of these signs, consult a veterinarian experienced with birds. As the pigeons grow you can start introducing solid pigeon food gradually, which can be found in pet stores. Mix it with the formula and observe their response. Eventually, they will become less dependent on formula and more on solid food. Handle the pigeon squeakers gently and talk to them in a soft, soothing tone to help them become accustomed to human contact. As they grow and become more independent, you can consider moving them to a larger enclosure or a dovecote if you plan to keep them as pets. Provide a safe and comfortable living environment with appropriate perches, nesting materials and pigeon-friendly food.
Terms for pigeons
Some terms are used in pigeon keeping. The correct term for a group of domestic pigeons is a bevy. A male pigeon is called a cockerel and a female pigeon is called a hen. A baby pigeon is called a squeaker. A pigeon that is over a year old is called a yearling.
Farming pigeons for meat
Warning: If you are squeamish or do not like the mention of death, skip this section.
If you're keeping meat pigeons, you are in the squab farming hobby. Squab farming is relatively rare in the farmyard, but pigeons will give you some delicious meat for your farmer family to enjoy. Here's what you need to do when culling pigeons for meat:
Hold the pigeon securely by the legs to prevent movement or use a killing cone. Quickly and firmly cut the pigeon's throat (severing the jugular vein) to ensure a swift and humane death. Allow the pigeon to bleed out completely. Dip the pigeon into a pot of boiling water for about 20-30 seconds. This helps loosen the feathers. Remove the pigeon from the boiling water and pluck the feathers. Be careful not to tear the skin. Make a small incision around the vent to access the internal cavity. Carefully remove the internal organs, including the crop, intestines and organs like the heart, lungs and liver. Rinse the cavity thoroughly to remove any remaining blood or debris.
Rinse the cleaned pigeon thoroughly under cold running water. Place the pigeon in cold water or an ice bath to cool it down quickly. This helps preserve the meat quality. Once cooled you can further process the pigeon by cutting it into portions or leaving it whole, depending on your culinary preferences. If you don't plan to use the meat immediately, store it in airtight containers or vacuum-sealed bags in the refrigerator or freezer. Dispose of the feathers, entrails, and any unused parts of the pigeon in a sanitary manner, following local regulations or guidelines for waste disposal. You can use pigeon meat in various recipes, such as stews, roasts, or grilled dishes. Ensure that you cook it thoroughly to a safe temperature to avoid foodborne illnesses.
Diseases
There are many diseases of pigeons including:
AUSTRALIAN PARROTS
The beginning...
The three most popular Australian parrots are: budgerigar, cockatiel and the large cockatoos. These birds are very popular in the aviculture industry because of their bright colours and unique personalities. Budgies would cost $15-$55 if purchased, cockatiels $40-$200 and large cockatoos being the most expensive, costing between $500-$2500. The cost of a cage or aviary depends on the species and how many birds you are keeping. Other popular parrots include lorikeets and rosellas.
Housing
You can either keep these parrots in large cages or in aviaries. The cage size depends on the species you are keeping. For cockatiels, the cage size for them must be 24 inches high by 36 inches wide by 36 inches tall. For budgies, the cage size for them must be 18 inches high by 18 inches wide by 32 inches tall. For most cockatoos, the cage size for them must be 46 inches wide by 30 inches high and 90 inches tall. The aviary must be, for budgies, 51 inches x 51 inches x 25 inches, for two cockatiels, 98 inches x 39 inches x 78 inches, and for cockatoos, 36 inches x 48 inches x 60 inches.
Feeding
Feed your Australian parrots a varied diet of fruit, veg, grain, seed and crumble. Parrots have a metabolism that are geared to low-fat diets. High-quality commercial pellet food formulated for parrots is an excellent base for their diet. It provides balanced nutrition and ensures they get essential vitamins and minerals. Offer a variety of fresh fruits such as apples, bananas, oranges and berries. These fruits are a good source of vitamins and antioxidants. Provide a mix of fresh vegetables like carrots, broccoli, kale, spinach and some bell peppers. These offer essential vitamins and minerals. Include leafy greens like lettuce, collard greens, and Swiss chard in their diet. These are rich in nutrients and help maintain their beak and plumage. Offer unsalted nuts like almonds and pecans in moderation as a treat. They are high in healthy fats and protein. Small amounts of seeds, such as sunflower and safflower seeds, can be given occasionally as treats. However, seeds should not be the primary food source, as they are high in fat. Cooked grains like rice and quinoa are good sources of carbohydrates and can be included in their diet occasionally. Fresh herbs like parsley and cilantro can be added to their food for nutrition. Provide fresh, clean water at all times for your birds. Parrots can be messy, so their water should be changed regularly. Do not feed your Australian parrots bad foods such as avocado, chocolate, junk human food, fruit pits and seeds, dairy products and mouldy and spoiled foods.
Enrichment
Australian parrots should be enriched because they can get bored easily in their cage or aviary. Place a pair of parrots in their cage because they are social animals. Aim for as much company and positive enrichment as you can. Research the species that you are going to provide enrichment to. Provide toys to your parrots, such as ladders, perches, swings and chew toys which are not toxic to them. Hide food in puzzle toys, foraging boxes or scatter it around their enclosure. This encourages natural foraging behaviours and keeps them mentally engaged. Teach them tricks or simple commands. This not only provides mental stimulation, but also strengthens the bond between you and your parrots. Most Australian parrots enjoy bathing. Provide a shallow dish of water for them to bathe in or mist them with a spray bottle. Give your parrots novelty items if required. Change over the toys to prevent them from being bored.
Breeding
Breeding Australian parrots can be challenging, and not all attempts will be successful. Be prepared for potential health issues, egg or chick mortality and other challenges. However, it is good to breed them if you want to keep generations of parrots and secure a successful family of them. Select healthy, mature birds that are at least 2-3 years old; ideally, pair birds of the same species, as hybridisation may lead to genetic issues. This ensures they are sexually mature and ready to breed. Parrots need a spacious and safe aviary or cage for breeding. The size depends on the specific species and the number of birds you plan to keep. Make sure the cage or aviary has adequate perches, nesting boxes, and toys for stimulation. Maintain a stable and comfortable environment for your parrots. Australian parrots typically prefer temperatures between 18-27°C. Ensure the aviary or cage is located away from drafts, direct sunlight, and extreme temperature fluctuations. Provide proper lighting and a natural day-night cycle to stimulate breeding behavior. Offer appropriate nesting boxes or cavities for your parrots to lay eggs. The size and design of the nesting box should match the species. Place the nestboxes in a quiet, private area of the aviary or cage. Watch for signs of bonding between the pair, such as preening each other and mutual feeding. As breeding season approaches female parrots may become more receptive to mating. Once the female lays eggs, monitor her closely. She may lay one egg every one to three days, depending on the species of parrot you are breeding. The female typically starts incubating the eggs after laying the second or third egg. Keep a close eye on the eggs to ensure they are being properly incubated.
Chick care
Australian parrot chicks are fun to look after, but there is some considerations when keeping or caring for them. It's important to make sure the species you are breeding is protected under national law. In Australia, ensure that you are in compliance with local and national laws regarding the care and ownership of Australian parrots, as some species may be protected or require permits.
Make sure you have a suitable enclosure or cage for the chicks. It should be clean, secure, and free from drafts. Maintain an appropriate temperature for the chicks. The temperature requirement can vary depending on the species, but it usually falls between 29-32°C. Use a heating pad to maintain the temperature. The diet for Australian parrot chicks will depend on their age and species. Typically, you will start with hand-feeding formula designed for parrot chicks. Follow the instructions on the packaging for mixing and feeding. This usually involves feeding every 2-4 hours during the day. Use a syringe or a specialized chick feeding spoon to feed the chicks. Make sure the food is at an appropriate temperature (around 40-43°C). Be very gentle while feeding to avoid aspiration. As the chicks grow, you'll gradually introduce solid foods like fresh fruits, vegetables, and specially formulated parrot pellets. The weaning process typically begins when they are around 8-12 weeks old. Offer fresh, clean water in a shallow dish when the chicks are old enough to drink independently. Spend time with the chicks to interact with them. Handle them gently and speak to them softly to help them become accustomed to human interaction. Keep the enclosure clean by regularly removing droppings, leftover food, and soiled bedding. This helps prevent the spread of disease. Keep a close eye on the chicks' health. If you notice any signs of illness (e.g., lethargy, loss of appetite, unusual droppings), consult a veterinarian with experience in avian care immediately. Monitor the development of their feathers. Ensure they are growing in properly and check for any abnormalities. As the chicks mature, work on training and socialization to ensure they are well-adjusted and friendly when they reach adulthood. It's important to have an avian veterinarian on call or schedule regular check-ups to ensure the health and well-being of your parrot chicks.
Diseases
Many Australian parrots may face sometimes fatal diseases such as:
AUSTRALIAN FINCHES
The beginning...
The cost of Australian finches depend on the species you buy for an indoor cage or aviary. A pair of zebra finches can be brought as little as $15 dollars, while a pair of star finches can be bought for $45-$75 and Gouldian finches can be brought at $100 or more. You can buy pre-made outdoor aviaries or very large indoor cages for your finches for hundreds or thousands of dollars, but you can build your own aviary with half the price. 2 pounds of bird seed or pellet cost about $8-$15 depending on the brand, food and water bowls cost $9-$20, treats $4-$10 and a cage cleaner cost $10-$40. These birds are a lifelong commitment, so always research your species of Australian finch before purchasing them from the pet shop or aviary store.
Housing
Australian finches require a large aviary that is 3m x 2m x 2.1m high. This houses a somewhat large charm (flock) of finches. A pair of finches can be kept in a cage; but it would be too small for them to roam around, so an aviary is much better for them. The size of aviary depends on what you can keep your finches in. A single-species aviary would be slightly smaller than a mixed-species aviary.
Feeding
Feed your Australian finches a varied diet. Provide a high-quality commercial finch seed mix that includes a variety of seeds such as millet and various grass seeds. Ensure that it is fresh and free from mould or contaminants. Fresh, clean water should always be available. Change the water daily to prevent contamination. Offer fresh, dark leafy greens like spinach and kale. You can also provide small amounts of other vegetables like broccoli, carrot tops and cucumber. Sprouting seeds like millet, mung beans and alfalfa can be a nutritious addition to their diet. These are rich in vitamins and minerals. A small amount of egg food can be beneficial, especially during the breeding season. You can make this by mixing hard-boiled egg yolks with small breadcrumbs and finely chopped greens. Australian finches can enjoy live insects as an occasional treat. Small insects like fruit flies or mealworms can be offered. Provide a mineral block or a cuttlebone for essential calcium and minerals. Do not feed your finches foods such as chocolate, avocado, mouldy food, spoiled food and high fat and sugary foods.
Enrichment
Finches need some enrichment in their aviary or cage. Offer different types of perches, including natural branches of varying sizes and textures. This helps exercise their feet and provides a more interesting environment. Small toys made for birds, such as hanging bells, mirrors and wooden toys, can be hung in the cage. Ensure that these toys are bird-safe and do not have small parts that can be swallowed. Encourage natural foraging behaviours by hiding their food in small containers or by placing it in foraging toys. This can mimic their natural search for food in the wild. Adding live plants to their aviary not only makes it more visually appealing but also provides a source of entertainment as finches can explore and nibble on the plants. Just make sure the plants are non-toxic to birds. Hanging swings or ladders in the cage can provide exercise and entertainment for your finches. Finches are social birds, so consider providing a companion or small charm. Ensure that they get along, as not all finch species can be housed together. This not only provides nutritional variety but also mental stimulation as they explore different foods. Change the placement of toys and perches regularly to keep their environment fresh and exciting. Provide audio stimulation by playing soft, calming music or nature sounds. Visual stimulation can be achieved by placing the aviary or cage where they can see natural sunlight and the outside world. Many Australian finches enjoy bathing. Provide a shallow dish of water or a small bird bath that clips to the cage for them to splash around in. Make sure to change the water regularly.
Breeding
Australian finches are easy to breed if you follow these steps:
Chick care
Caring for Australian finch chicks can be difficult sometimes, but when you get the hang on it, it will get easier over time. Ensure that the parent finches have a suitable nest box to lay their eggs and raise their chicks. The nest box should be the appropriate size for the species and provide enough privacy and protection for the chicks. The health of the chicks largely depends on the nutrition of the parent birds. Provide them with a balanced diet of quality finch seed mix, fresh leafy greens and occasional protein sources like egg food and live insects. Once the chicks hatch, you'll need to supplement their diet. Purchase or prepare a specialized finch chick food. This can include a mix of finely ground seeds, egg food and vitamins. Chicks need frequent feeding, typically every 2-3 hours during the day. Be prepared for early mornings and late nights. Make sure there is a source of clean, fresh water available to the parent birds at all times. You can provide a shallow dish with water near the nest box to help with humidity levels and to allow the parents to moisten the chick food. Maintain a stable temperature in the breeding area, ideally around 24-27°C. Adequate humidity is important for chick development, especially in the early stages. You can use a humidifier or mist the area with water regularly. Observe the nest from a distance to avoid disturbing the parents. Ensure they are properly feeding and caring for the chicks. If you suspect any issues with the parents, such as neglect or aggression towards the chicks, you may need to intervene with them. Keep the nest box clean. Remove any uneaten food or droppings regularly to maintain a hygienic environment. Minimise handling of the chicks, as excessive handling can stress them and disrupt parental care. However, it's essential to monitor their health and development. As the chicks grow, they will start to transition to solid food. Continue providing chick food and gradually introduce them to the adult diet. As the chicks mature and gain independence, you can consider moving them to a separate cage or aviary from their parents. Be prepared to seek veterinary assistance if you notice any signs of illness in the chicks or parents. Keep a record of the chicks' growth and development, including their hatch date and any noteworthy observations.
Diseases
Australian finches can be susceptible to various diseases caused by bacteria, parasites, viruses and environmental factors. Some of these diseases include:
Species profile: Zebra finch
The most common finch in captivity, the zebra finch is loved by birdkeepers around the world. Their zebra-like patterns and orange cheeks have made them famous in the aviculture industry. This finch originates in arid/semi-arid Australia from deserts to rural areas. Therefore, there are thousands or millions of zebra finches in America, Europe and the United Kingdom for example.
The beginning...
You can adopt pigeons or buy them for a breeder-these are the two best methods of purchasing pigeons. Research the pigeon breed you are going to choose. Both of these methods cost $50-$400 depending on which breeder or shelter you are getting them from. It is important to research any breeder or shelter before purchasing pigeons. Initial setup and supplies cost $150 or more. Health care usually cost $10-$40 per month. Maintenance would cost $5-$20 per month. Pigeons are inexpensive to own and care for. Start by researching different pigeon breeds and their characteristics. Some common breeds kept as pets include homing pigeons, fancy pigeons and utility pigeons. Each breed has their own unique traits and requirements.
How to make a dovecote
You will need a dovecote or pigeon loft as your housing requirements for your birds. You can build a dovecote on the farmyard if you're handy. The size of the dovecote depends on how many pigeons you are keeping. Always research the design before building it. Here's how to build a dovecote:
- Research and design: Determine the size and style of your dovecote based on the number of pigeons you plan to keep and your available space. Research different dovecote designs and select one that suits your preferences and the needs of your pigeons.
- Gather materials and tools: Purchase all the necessary materials and tools for construction. You will need lumber, plywood, roofing material, nails, screws, wire mesh, insulation (optional), paint and the appropriate tools like saws, drills, hammers and screwdrivers.
- Choosing your location: Select a suitable location for your dovecote. It should be well-ventilated, provide protection from predators and have some easy access for cleaning and maintenance. Ensure it's far enough away from neighbours to avoid disturbances.
- Build the frame: Construct the frame of the dovecote using treated lumber. The frame should include walls, a roof and a floor. Ensure it's sturdy and well-braced to withstand the elements.
- Add insulation: If you live in an area with extreme weather conditions, consider adding insulation to the walls and roof to provide a comfortable environment for your pigeons.
- Install perches and nest boxes: Inside the dovecote, install perches and nesting boxes. Pigeons need comfortable places to roost and nest. Provide enough perches and nesting spaces for your pigeons to avoid overcrowding.
- Create ventilation: Adequate ventilation is crucial to prevent moisture buildup and maintain air quality. Install vents or small windows with mesh screens to ensure proper airflow while keeping predators out.
- Roofing: Install a sturdy roof to protect your pigeons from rain and harsh sunlight. You can use roofing material like asphalt shingles or metal roofing. Ensure it's securely attached to prevent leaks.
- Secure the exterior: Cover the exterior of the dovecote with wire mesh to keep out predators like birds of prey and domestic cats. Make sure the openings in the mesh are small enough to prevent access but large enough to allow proper ventilation.
- Paint and finish: Paint the dovecote with non-toxic paint to protect it from weathering and to add aesthetic appeal. Choose light colors to reflect heat and keep the interior cooler.
- Install access doors: Create access doors for cleaning, feeding and checking on your pigeons. These doors should be secure and lockable.
- Landscaping: Landscape the area around the dovecote, providing a clean and safe environment for your pigeons. Consider adding perches or a flight area for exercise.
- Monitor and maintain: Regularly monitor your dovecote for signs of wear and tear and perform routine maintenance to ensure the safety and comfort of your pigeon.
Colouration
Domestic pigeons have a lot of colouration depending on the type, breed and age of the bird. Solid colours include black, red, white, blue and grey, while there are different patterns such as a checkered pattern, 'tiger' stripes on the wings and barless pigeons. Some domestics have feathers with iridescent or metallic qualities, similar to those found in wild pigeons. These feathers can shimmer and change color in different lighting conditions. Many of these birds have complex combinations, with patterns unique to the animal.
Breeding
Pigeons are easy to breed. There are many steps of pigeon breeding including:
- Select suitable pigeon breeds:
- Decide what type of pigeons you want to breed. Some common breeds include homing pigeons, fancy pigeons and utility pigeons (bred for meat or racing). Choose a breed that suits your goals and preferences.
- Create a pigeon loft or dovecote:
- Build or purchase a pigeon loft or dovecote to house your pigeons. Ensure it provides protection from the weather, predators such as cats and adequate ventilation.
- The loft should have separate compartments for nesting and roosting, and it should be easy to clean.
- Provide proper nutrition:
- Offer a balanced diet that includes pigeon feed, grains, seeds, and fresh water. Pigeons also benefit from access to grit, which helps with digestion.
- Consult with a veterinarian or experienced pigeon breeder for specific dietary recommendations based on your pigeon breed and purpose.
- Pairing pigeons:
- Introduce compatible pairs of pigeons for breeding. Pigeons are generally monogamous, so a pair will usually bond and mate for life.
- Monitor the pigeons for signs of bonding, such as cooing and billing (gentle pecking and mutual grooming).
- Nesting and egglaying:
- Provide nesting boxes or platforms inside the loft. Pigeons will typically lay two eggs per clutch.
- Ensure the nesting area is clean and free from drafts. Pigeons incubate their eggs for about 17-19 days.
- Incubation:
- If you want to hatch eggs artificially, you can use an incubator. Otherwise, let the parent pigeons incubate the eggs on their own.
- Healthcare:
- Regularly inspect your pigeons for signs of illness or parasites. Provide proper vaccinations and deworming as needed.
- Consult with a veterinarian who has experience with pigeons for routine health checks and advice on disease prevention.
- Record keeping:
- Keep records of breeding pairs, hatching dates and any noteworthy observations. This will help you track the progress of your pigeon breeding program.
Squeakers require special care, as they are small and fragile to handle. Wash your hands thoroughly and wear disposable gloves when handling the baby pigeons to prevent any potential disease transmission. Place the pigeon squeakers in a clean, dry, and well-ventilated container like a cardboard box or a plastic tub with holes for air circulation. Line the container with soft, clean bedding, such as paper towels or tissues. Pigeon squeakers cannot regulate their body temperature well, so they need to be kept warm. Use a heating pad set on low or a heat lamp to maintain a temperature of around 35°C. Ensure that there's a warm side and a cooler side in the container so that the pigeons can move to the temperature they prefer. Domestic pigeon squeakers require a different diet. You should feed them a specially formulated baby pigeon or dove hand-feeding formula, which is available at most pet stores. Use a syringe or a small spoon to feed them. Make sure the food is at the right temperature, around 40°C. Follow the instructions on the hand-feeding formula packaging for the appropriate feeding schedule and quantity. Alongside feeding formula, provide fresh, clean water in a shallow dish. Pigeon squeakers can drink water from an early age. Pigeon squeakers need to be fed every 2-3 hours during the day. As they grow, you can gradually increase the time between feedings. After each feeding, use a damp cloth or cotton ball to gently stimulate their cloaca (the opening through which they excrete waste) to encourage them to defecate. This mimics the actions of their parents, who usually stimulate them to eliminate wastage. Clean the container regularly to maintain a hygienic environment. Keep a close eye on the pigeon squeakers' health. Look for any signs of illness, such as lethargy, fluffed feathers, discharge from the eyes and beak or difficulty breathing. If you notice any of these signs, consult a veterinarian experienced with birds. As the pigeons grow you can start introducing solid pigeon food gradually, which can be found in pet stores. Mix it with the formula and observe their response. Eventually, they will become less dependent on formula and more on solid food. Handle the pigeon squeakers gently and talk to them in a soft, soothing tone to help them become accustomed to human contact. As they grow and become more independent, you can consider moving them to a larger enclosure or a dovecote if you plan to keep them as pets. Provide a safe and comfortable living environment with appropriate perches, nesting materials and pigeon-friendly food.
Terms for pigeons
Some terms are used in pigeon keeping. The correct term for a group of domestic pigeons is a bevy. A male pigeon is called a cockerel and a female pigeon is called a hen. A baby pigeon is called a squeaker. A pigeon that is over a year old is called a yearling.
Farming pigeons for meat
Warning: If you are squeamish or do not like the mention of death, skip this section.
If you're keeping meat pigeons, you are in the squab farming hobby. Squab farming is relatively rare in the farmyard, but pigeons will give you some delicious meat for your farmer family to enjoy. Here's what you need to do when culling pigeons for meat:
- Sharp knife: You'll need a sharp tool to quickly and humanely dispatch the pigeons.
- Clean work area: Set up a clean, sanitary workspace for processing the birds.
- Large pot of boiling water: You will use this for scalding and feather removal.
- Gloves for clean hands
Hold the pigeon securely by the legs to prevent movement or use a killing cone. Quickly and firmly cut the pigeon's throat (severing the jugular vein) to ensure a swift and humane death. Allow the pigeon to bleed out completely. Dip the pigeon into a pot of boiling water for about 20-30 seconds. This helps loosen the feathers. Remove the pigeon from the boiling water and pluck the feathers. Be careful not to tear the skin. Make a small incision around the vent to access the internal cavity. Carefully remove the internal organs, including the crop, intestines and organs like the heart, lungs and liver. Rinse the cavity thoroughly to remove any remaining blood or debris.
Rinse the cleaned pigeon thoroughly under cold running water. Place the pigeon in cold water or an ice bath to cool it down quickly. This helps preserve the meat quality. Once cooled you can further process the pigeon by cutting it into portions or leaving it whole, depending on your culinary preferences. If you don't plan to use the meat immediately, store it in airtight containers or vacuum-sealed bags in the refrigerator or freezer. Dispose of the feathers, entrails, and any unused parts of the pigeon in a sanitary manner, following local regulations or guidelines for waste disposal. You can use pigeon meat in various recipes, such as stews, roasts, or grilled dishes. Ensure that you cook it thoroughly to a safe temperature to avoid foodborne illnesses.
Diseases
There are many diseases of pigeons including:
- Parasitic infections: Pigeons can be affected by external parasites like mites and ticks, as well as internal parasites such as roundworms, tapeworms, and coccidia.
- Respiratory infections: Respiratory infections are quite common in pigeons and can be caused by various bacteria and viruses. Symptoms may include sneezing, coughing, nasal discharge, and labored breathing.
- Pigeonpox: This is a viral disease that affects pigeons. It can cause skin lesions, nodules on the feet and legs and sometimes, respiratory distress.
- Salmonellosis: Pigeons can carry and transmit Salmonella bacteria, which can cause severe gastrointestinal illness in humans.
- Avian paramyxovirus: This is a contagious viral disease that affects pigeons and other birds. It can cause respiratory and neurological symptoms and may lead to high mortality in affected bevies (flocks).
- Canker (trichomoniasis): Canker is a protozoal infection that primarily affects the mouth and throat of pigeons. It can cause yellowish lesions in the mouth and difficulty in swallowing.
- Worm infections: Pigeons can be afflicted by various types of worms, including roundworms and tapeworms which can cause digestive problems and weight loss.
- Coccidiosis: This is a common intestinal disease caused by a protozoan parasite. It can lead to diarrhea, weight loss and overall weakness in pigeons.
- Lead poisoning: Pigeons may ingest lead particles from contaminated environments or lead-based objects, leading to lead poisoning. This can cause neurological issues, many digestive problems and even death.
- Infectious coryza: This is a bacterial disease that affects the upper respiratory tract of pigeons, causing symptoms like swelling around the eyes, nasal discharge and reduced egg production in breeding birds.
- Newcastle disease: This is a highly contagious viral disease that affects pigeons and other birds. It can cause a wide range of symptoms, including respiratory distress, nervous system signs and digestive problems.
AUSTRALIAN PARROTS
The beginning...
The three most popular Australian parrots are: budgerigar, cockatiel and the large cockatoos. These birds are very popular in the aviculture industry because of their bright colours and unique personalities. Budgies would cost $15-$55 if purchased, cockatiels $40-$200 and large cockatoos being the most expensive, costing between $500-$2500. The cost of a cage or aviary depends on the species and how many birds you are keeping. Other popular parrots include lorikeets and rosellas.
Housing
You can either keep these parrots in large cages or in aviaries. The cage size depends on the species you are keeping. For cockatiels, the cage size for them must be 24 inches high by 36 inches wide by 36 inches tall. For budgies, the cage size for them must be 18 inches high by 18 inches wide by 32 inches tall. For most cockatoos, the cage size for them must be 46 inches wide by 30 inches high and 90 inches tall. The aviary must be, for budgies, 51 inches x 51 inches x 25 inches, for two cockatiels, 98 inches x 39 inches x 78 inches, and for cockatoos, 36 inches x 48 inches x 60 inches.
Feeding
Feed your Australian parrots a varied diet of fruit, veg, grain, seed and crumble. Parrots have a metabolism that are geared to low-fat diets. High-quality commercial pellet food formulated for parrots is an excellent base for their diet. It provides balanced nutrition and ensures they get essential vitamins and minerals. Offer a variety of fresh fruits such as apples, bananas, oranges and berries. These fruits are a good source of vitamins and antioxidants. Provide a mix of fresh vegetables like carrots, broccoli, kale, spinach and some bell peppers. These offer essential vitamins and minerals. Include leafy greens like lettuce, collard greens, and Swiss chard in their diet. These are rich in nutrients and help maintain their beak and plumage. Offer unsalted nuts like almonds and pecans in moderation as a treat. They are high in healthy fats and protein. Small amounts of seeds, such as sunflower and safflower seeds, can be given occasionally as treats. However, seeds should not be the primary food source, as they are high in fat. Cooked grains like rice and quinoa are good sources of carbohydrates and can be included in their diet occasionally. Fresh herbs like parsley and cilantro can be added to their food for nutrition. Provide fresh, clean water at all times for your birds. Parrots can be messy, so their water should be changed regularly. Do not feed your Australian parrots bad foods such as avocado, chocolate, junk human food, fruit pits and seeds, dairy products and mouldy and spoiled foods.
Enrichment
Australian parrots should be enriched because they can get bored easily in their cage or aviary. Place a pair of parrots in their cage because they are social animals. Aim for as much company and positive enrichment as you can. Research the species that you are going to provide enrichment to. Provide toys to your parrots, such as ladders, perches, swings and chew toys which are not toxic to them. Hide food in puzzle toys, foraging boxes or scatter it around their enclosure. This encourages natural foraging behaviours and keeps them mentally engaged. Teach them tricks or simple commands. This not only provides mental stimulation, but also strengthens the bond between you and your parrots. Most Australian parrots enjoy bathing. Provide a shallow dish of water for them to bathe in or mist them with a spray bottle. Give your parrots novelty items if required. Change over the toys to prevent them from being bored.
Breeding
Breeding Australian parrots can be challenging, and not all attempts will be successful. Be prepared for potential health issues, egg or chick mortality and other challenges. However, it is good to breed them if you want to keep generations of parrots and secure a successful family of them. Select healthy, mature birds that are at least 2-3 years old; ideally, pair birds of the same species, as hybridisation may lead to genetic issues. This ensures they are sexually mature and ready to breed. Parrots need a spacious and safe aviary or cage for breeding. The size depends on the specific species and the number of birds you plan to keep. Make sure the cage or aviary has adequate perches, nesting boxes, and toys for stimulation. Maintain a stable and comfortable environment for your parrots. Australian parrots typically prefer temperatures between 18-27°C. Ensure the aviary or cage is located away from drafts, direct sunlight, and extreme temperature fluctuations. Provide proper lighting and a natural day-night cycle to stimulate breeding behavior. Offer appropriate nesting boxes or cavities for your parrots to lay eggs. The size and design of the nesting box should match the species. Place the nestboxes in a quiet, private area of the aviary or cage. Watch for signs of bonding between the pair, such as preening each other and mutual feeding. As breeding season approaches female parrots may become more receptive to mating. Once the female lays eggs, monitor her closely. She may lay one egg every one to three days, depending on the species of parrot you are breeding. The female typically starts incubating the eggs after laying the second or third egg. Keep a close eye on the eggs to ensure they are being properly incubated.
Chick care
Australian parrot chicks are fun to look after, but there is some considerations when keeping or caring for them. It's important to make sure the species you are breeding is protected under national law. In Australia, ensure that you are in compliance with local and national laws regarding the care and ownership of Australian parrots, as some species may be protected or require permits.
Make sure you have a suitable enclosure or cage for the chicks. It should be clean, secure, and free from drafts. Maintain an appropriate temperature for the chicks. The temperature requirement can vary depending on the species, but it usually falls between 29-32°C. Use a heating pad to maintain the temperature. The diet for Australian parrot chicks will depend on their age and species. Typically, you will start with hand-feeding formula designed for parrot chicks. Follow the instructions on the packaging for mixing and feeding. This usually involves feeding every 2-4 hours during the day. Use a syringe or a specialized chick feeding spoon to feed the chicks. Make sure the food is at an appropriate temperature (around 40-43°C). Be very gentle while feeding to avoid aspiration. As the chicks grow, you'll gradually introduce solid foods like fresh fruits, vegetables, and specially formulated parrot pellets. The weaning process typically begins when they are around 8-12 weeks old. Offer fresh, clean water in a shallow dish when the chicks are old enough to drink independently. Spend time with the chicks to interact with them. Handle them gently and speak to them softly to help them become accustomed to human interaction. Keep the enclosure clean by regularly removing droppings, leftover food, and soiled bedding. This helps prevent the spread of disease. Keep a close eye on the chicks' health. If you notice any signs of illness (e.g., lethargy, loss of appetite, unusual droppings), consult a veterinarian with experience in avian care immediately. Monitor the development of their feathers. Ensure they are growing in properly and check for any abnormalities. As the chicks mature, work on training and socialization to ensure they are well-adjusted and friendly when they reach adulthood. It's important to have an avian veterinarian on call or schedule regular check-ups to ensure the health and well-being of your parrot chicks.
Diseases
Many Australian parrots may face sometimes fatal diseases such as:
- Psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD): Psittacine beak and feather disease is a viral disease that affects the feathers, beak, and immune system of parrots. It can cause feather loss, beak deformities and general weakness. Unfortunately, PBFD is highly contagious and often fatal. It's essential to quarantine new birds and regularly test your parrot for this disease.
- Polyomavirus: Polyomavirus primarily affects young parrots, causing weight loss, regurgitation and sometimes sudden death. Vaccination is available for some species of parrots, so consult your veterinarian for advice on prevention.
- Aspergillosis: This fungal infection can affect the respiratory system of parrots. It can cause symptoms like coughing, nasal discharge and laboured breathing. Proper hygiene and a clean environment can help prevent this disease.
- Psittacosis (Parrot fever): Psittacosis is a zoonotic disease that can affect both birds and humans. It can cause flu-like symptoms in humans and a range of symptoms in parrots, including respiratory issues, diarrhoea and lethargy. Good hygiene practices and regular vet check-ups can help prevent and treat psittacosis.
- Gastrointestinal issues: Parrots can develop various gastrointestinal problems, including crop impaction, diarrhea, and bacterial or fungal infections. These issues can result from poor diet, contaminated food and/or water or stress.
- Feather plucking: Behavioural problems like feather-plucking can affect parrots, often stemming from stress, boredom, or underlying health issues. Identifying and addressing the underlying causes is essential to manage these behaviours.
- Obesity: Overfeeding and a diet high in fatty foods can lead to obesity in parrots, which can contribute to various health problems, including heart disease and joint issues. A balanced diet and regular exercise are crucial for maintaining a healthy weight.
- Trauma and injury: Accidents, such as falls or collisions, can result in injuries, including broken bones or wounds. Provide a safe and secure environment to minimise the risk of injury.
- Nutritional deficiencies: A poor diet can lead to various nutritional deficiencies in parrots, affecting their overall health. Ensure that your parrot's diet is well-balanced and includes a variety of fresh fruits, vegetables and quality parrot pellets.
AUSTRALIAN FINCHES
The beginning...
The cost of Australian finches depend on the species you buy for an indoor cage or aviary. A pair of zebra finches can be brought as little as $15 dollars, while a pair of star finches can be bought for $45-$75 and Gouldian finches can be brought at $100 or more. You can buy pre-made outdoor aviaries or very large indoor cages for your finches for hundreds or thousands of dollars, but you can build your own aviary with half the price. 2 pounds of bird seed or pellet cost about $8-$15 depending on the brand, food and water bowls cost $9-$20, treats $4-$10 and a cage cleaner cost $10-$40. These birds are a lifelong commitment, so always research your species of Australian finch before purchasing them from the pet shop or aviary store.
Housing
Australian finches require a large aviary that is 3m x 2m x 2.1m high. This houses a somewhat large charm (flock) of finches. A pair of finches can be kept in a cage; but it would be too small for them to roam around, so an aviary is much better for them. The size of aviary depends on what you can keep your finches in. A single-species aviary would be slightly smaller than a mixed-species aviary.
Feeding
Feed your Australian finches a varied diet. Provide a high-quality commercial finch seed mix that includes a variety of seeds such as millet and various grass seeds. Ensure that it is fresh and free from mould or contaminants. Fresh, clean water should always be available. Change the water daily to prevent contamination. Offer fresh, dark leafy greens like spinach and kale. You can also provide small amounts of other vegetables like broccoli, carrot tops and cucumber. Sprouting seeds like millet, mung beans and alfalfa can be a nutritious addition to their diet. These are rich in vitamins and minerals. A small amount of egg food can be beneficial, especially during the breeding season. You can make this by mixing hard-boiled egg yolks with small breadcrumbs and finely chopped greens. Australian finches can enjoy live insects as an occasional treat. Small insects like fruit flies or mealworms can be offered. Provide a mineral block or a cuttlebone for essential calcium and minerals. Do not feed your finches foods such as chocolate, avocado, mouldy food, spoiled food and high fat and sugary foods.
Enrichment
Finches need some enrichment in their aviary or cage. Offer different types of perches, including natural branches of varying sizes and textures. This helps exercise their feet and provides a more interesting environment. Small toys made for birds, such as hanging bells, mirrors and wooden toys, can be hung in the cage. Ensure that these toys are bird-safe and do not have small parts that can be swallowed. Encourage natural foraging behaviours by hiding their food in small containers or by placing it in foraging toys. This can mimic their natural search for food in the wild. Adding live plants to their aviary not only makes it more visually appealing but also provides a source of entertainment as finches can explore and nibble on the plants. Just make sure the plants are non-toxic to birds. Hanging swings or ladders in the cage can provide exercise and entertainment for your finches. Finches are social birds, so consider providing a companion or small charm. Ensure that they get along, as not all finch species can be housed together. This not only provides nutritional variety but also mental stimulation as they explore different foods. Change the placement of toys and perches regularly to keep their environment fresh and exciting. Provide audio stimulation by playing soft, calming music or nature sounds. Visual stimulation can be achieved by placing the aviary or cage where they can see natural sunlight and the outside world. Many Australian finches enjoy bathing. Provide a shallow dish of water or a small bird bath that clips to the cage for them to splash around in. Make sure to change the water regularly.
Breeding
Australian finches are easy to breed if you follow these steps:
- There are several species of Australian finches, such as Gouldian finches, zebra finches and star finches, among others. Select the species you want to breed based on your preferences and availability in your area. Some finches are protected under Australian law, so pick your species carefully.
- Ensure your aviary is spacious enough to accommodate the birds comfortably. Provide perches, nest boxes, and nesting materials. The aviary should have adequate ventilation and protection from extreme weather conditions.
- Ensure you have a compatible pair of finches. Some species can be aggressive or territorial, so it's important to monitor their behavior when introducing new birds. Most Australian finches form monogamous pairs, so you typically keep one male and one female together.
- Install appropriate nest boxes inside the aviary. The size and type of nest box may vary depending on the species.
- Fill the nest box with nesting material, such as dry grass, coconut fibre or soft nesting material specifically designed for birds. Many Australian finches breed during the warmer months, so it's important to know the specific breeding season for the species you are keeping. Some species may breed year-round under controlled conditions.
- Regularly monitor the birds for signs of mating behavior, such as courtship displays, feeding each other, or spending time in the nest box. Check the nest box for eggs once the female starts laying them.
- Allow the female to incubate the eggs, as she will do most of the work. The male may assist in feeding her during this time. Ensure the aviary remains calm and quiet to reduce stress on the nesting pair.
- Keep records of breeding attempts, egg-laying dates and any other important information about your birds.
Chick care
Caring for Australian finch chicks can be difficult sometimes, but when you get the hang on it, it will get easier over time. Ensure that the parent finches have a suitable nest box to lay their eggs and raise their chicks. The nest box should be the appropriate size for the species and provide enough privacy and protection for the chicks. The health of the chicks largely depends on the nutrition of the parent birds. Provide them with a balanced diet of quality finch seed mix, fresh leafy greens and occasional protein sources like egg food and live insects. Once the chicks hatch, you'll need to supplement their diet. Purchase or prepare a specialized finch chick food. This can include a mix of finely ground seeds, egg food and vitamins. Chicks need frequent feeding, typically every 2-3 hours during the day. Be prepared for early mornings and late nights. Make sure there is a source of clean, fresh water available to the parent birds at all times. You can provide a shallow dish with water near the nest box to help with humidity levels and to allow the parents to moisten the chick food. Maintain a stable temperature in the breeding area, ideally around 24-27°C. Adequate humidity is important for chick development, especially in the early stages. You can use a humidifier or mist the area with water regularly. Observe the nest from a distance to avoid disturbing the parents. Ensure they are properly feeding and caring for the chicks. If you suspect any issues with the parents, such as neglect or aggression towards the chicks, you may need to intervene with them. Keep the nest box clean. Remove any uneaten food or droppings regularly to maintain a hygienic environment. Minimise handling of the chicks, as excessive handling can stress them and disrupt parental care. However, it's essential to monitor their health and development. As the chicks grow, they will start to transition to solid food. Continue providing chick food and gradually introduce them to the adult diet. As the chicks mature and gain independence, you can consider moving them to a separate cage or aviary from their parents. Be prepared to seek veterinary assistance if you notice any signs of illness in the chicks or parents. Keep a record of the chicks' growth and development, including their hatch date and any noteworthy observations.
Diseases
Australian finches can be susceptible to various diseases caused by bacteria, parasites, viruses and environmental factors. Some of these diseases include:
- Avian pox: Avian pox is a viral disease that affects the skin, beak and eyes of finches. Infected birds may develop wart-like growths on their skin and experience respiratory distress. It can be transmitted through direct contact with infected birds or contaminated surfaces.
- Respiratory infections: Finches are susceptible to respiratory infections caused by various bacteria and viruses. Symptoms include sneezing, nasal discharge, laboured breathing and reduced activity. Proper hygiene, good ventilation and avoiding overcrowding can help prevent these infections.
- Mites and lice: External parasites like mites and lice can infest finches and cause feather loss, itching, and discomfort. Regular cleaning of cages and providing dust baths can help prevent infestations.
- Internal parasites: Worms and other internal parasites can affect finches' health. Regular deworming and maintaining good hygiene in the cage can help prevent these issues.
- Coccidiosis: Coccidiosis is a common protozoan infection that affects the intestinal tract of various birds. It can cause diarrhoea, weight loss and dehydration. Proper sanitation and clean water sources can help prevent coccidiosis.
- Vitamin and nutritional deficiencies: Poor diet can lead to vitamin and mineral deficiencies in finches. Common deficiencies include vitamin A, calcium and iodine. Providing a balanced diet and access to cuttlebone or mineral blocks can help prevent these issues.
- Egg-binding: Female finches can experience egg binding, where they are unable to pass an egg. This can be life-threatening and requires immediate veterinary attention.
- Feather mites: Feather mites may affect the condition and appearance of a finch's feathers. They can cause itching and discomfort. Isolating new birds and regularly cleaning cages can help prevent the spread of feather mites.
- Stress-related conditions: Stress can weaken a finch's immune system, making it more susceptible to diseases. Stressors include overcrowding, sudden changes in environment, and aggressive cage mates. Providing a calm and stable environment is essential.
- Injuries: Accidents and injuries can occur, such as broken wings or beak damage. It's crucial to provide a safe and secure environment for finches to prevent injuries.
Species profile: Zebra finch
The most common finch in captivity, the zebra finch is loved by birdkeepers around the world. Their zebra-like patterns and orange cheeks have made them famous in the aviculture industry. This finch originates in arid/semi-arid Australia from deserts to rural areas. Therefore, there are thousands or millions of zebra finches in America, Europe and the United Kingdom for example.
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