Introduction to the article
This article, written by me in my own words, covers everything from caring for them to chicken calls and their meaning, caring for chicks to disabled chickens. I hope that you will read this article because everyone knows the basics of chicken care. Chickens are an old favourite to the BackYard Chickens forum, but chickens and chicks have special care needs, like any other companion animal. There are questions such as: 'What enrichment do chickens need?' or 'How big the coop must be for a few chickens?'. Find out with this ultimate care guide for chickens.
About the chicken (and interesting facts about them)
The chicken (Gallus gallus domesticus) is the most widespread farmyard bird, numbering in the billions. There are more than 1600 chicken breeds worldwide. Intelligent and sentient, the chicken is primarily kept for its meat and eggs. The total population of chickens are 34.4 billion compared to humans' 8 billion. Australia has 100 million chickens, while the US has 9 billion chickens. There are 50 billion chickens raised for the meat industry and 136 million chickens are killed, in total, for meat and eggs (chooks who don't lay eggs anymore) every day. These clever birds are the closest living relatives to the Tyrannosaurus rex. Another interesting fact about chickens is that they have more bones on the neck than giraffes. These are called ‘pneumatic bones’. They actually form part of chickens’ respiratory systems and work with the lungs to help them breathe oxygen and remove carbon dioxide. Wild and domestic chickens survive for 8 to 15 years in their natural environment.
Chickens use vision as their main sense, and their colour vision is very well developed and designed to be used in brightly lit conditions. Their vision, and other birds' vision may be better than ours because they can see ultraviolet light too. Chickens communicate with more than 30 vocalisations, each with a distinct meaning, including warning their friends about different types of predators or letting their mothers know whether they’re comfortable. Chickens also dream. They experience REM (rapid eye movement) during sleep. Chooks know who's boss. They form a social hierarchy known as a pecking order. All of them know their place on the ladder. Mother hens talk to their unborn young, and they chirp back through their shells. Scientists are trying to find a reason why this happens. They can navigate using the sun, which helps them find food and water and even know what time it is.
The beginning...
Before committing to new chickens, check your local government website for regulations. After you have done that and checked their regulations, you're good to go! Purchase or adopt vaccinated chickens from a reliable source as they are easily prone to respiratory diseases. Day old chickens usually cost around $12 each. You should expect to have them vaccinated but unsexed. Pure bred chicks are available from around 4 weeks of age. For a point of lay hen, common varieties cost around $26 each. Then there’s pure bred chickens which are available from around 4 weeks of age and they will cost around $75 each.
First, it’s important to understand that all chickens require consistent care and live relatively long lives if they’re healthy and happy. Some breeds can live a decade or longer, so you should be ready to keep chickens for their entire lives. It’s a long-term commitment. You must be willing to provide a safe environment for your hens with space for them to roam around and partake in natural behaviors like scratching and dust bathing. You’ll also need funds for a coop, feed, and numerous other supplies.
Now that I got chooks, what do I need?
You will need a chicken coop in your home or farm that is properly ventilated and secure so predators such as domestic cats don't get in. Pre-made chicken coops, especially medium-large ones, can be very pricey. However, you may be able to find a used coop locally by asking around or searching community websites such as Gumtree. If you’re handy, consider turning an old shed into a spacious coop. You can find cheap used sheds in great condition on sites like Craigslist and Gumtree, then easily create nesting boxes and a roost. Reinforce the coop with chicken wire that goes underground by 35cm to deter any digging predators and to prevent pests. Cover the floor with about 8cm of sawdust substrate, straw substrate or sand substrate to add comfort to your chicken enclosure and encourage foraging. Give your chicken room to enjoy the outdoors. You can even let them roam free in your backyard if it’s fenced properly and there’s no risk of injury. The size of the coop depends on the breed of chicken you are looking to care for. Your coop needs perches (wood), nesting boxes and substrate. There are three sizes of coop in BYC, small, medium and large. Small is used for keeping two-three chickens, medium for five-seven chickens and large for 8 or more chickens.
Standard breeds: 4 square feet of coop space per bird; 8 square feet of run space per bird.
Standard heavy breeds: more than 8 square feet of coop space per bird; more than 16 square feet of run space per bird.
Your coop needs nest boxes for hens to lay their eggs. For an average sized hen, the adequate depth and nest size needs to be 30cm cubed. Bantam breeds can have nesting boxes slightly smaller at 25cm cubed. Larger breeds may require nesting boxes larger at 35cm cubed.
Water dishes are also required for chickens. Refill it daily or weekly to make sure that fresh water is always available and clean them every few weeks to prevent infection. Waterers can be easily brought from livestock stores or your local pet store if you have backyard chickens.
Here's a good article published by @DobieLover on their chicken coop and how they built it:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-mulligan.74743/
Bedding
The bedding depends on what coop you are owning. If you pick sawdust or wood shavings, this is a good bedding for your chicken. It has low ammonia levels, compostable and an excellent ease of use. However, it is flammable, have lots of mould and can cause liver damage, respiratory damage and some cancers. Sand is a good alternative to wood shavings and sawdust because it is clean, a low insect load and insulates the coop to be cooler in the summer. Do not use play sand in your coop because it is fine-grained and dangerous for your bird. There is a risk for cancer and silicate pneumoconiosis in some sands. Medium-coarse grained sand is best for your chicken coop. Straw is another good alternative for your chicken coop because it is easy to find, keeps chickens warm in the winter and excellent use of composting and moisture absorption. The risks of straw is that they contain insects, are flammable and have a lot of mould. Straw can cause respiratory diseases if the straw is too fine.
Grooming
Chickens LOVE dust baths, so provide one for your coop by digging a hole and adding some fine dirt in an empty area when outdoors. It helps them get rid of mites and lice that may be on their bodies. If you have set up a specific dust bathing area for your brood ( a group of chickens is called a brood), you need to make sure that the area is maintained so it can serve it’s purpose of keeping your hens and roosters squeaky clean! Clean out bird faeces regularly, and completely refresh the contents per every few weeks. Chickens need their nails clipped once or twice a year to prevent nail overgrowth.
Feeding
Chickens are omnivorous. A good quality commercial poultry feed should be the main component of your chickens’ diet to make sure they get all the nutrients they need. These feeds can come in pellet, mash or crumbed forms and are made up of a mix of grains (corn, oats, soybeans), grit (ground oyster shell or limestone) and vitamins (calcium). Feed can be provided in a feed dispenser or container, and other seeds and grains (such as wheat and corn) could also be scattered in the environment to supplement their diet and encourage natural foraging behaviour. Your bird's feeding pattern differs from age, breed and sex. Do not feed chickens poisonous foods such as chocolate, avocado, citrus, garlic and raw potato, and high fat foods.
Coop cleaning
A weekly/bi-weekly coop clean is as easy as following these steps:
Enrichment
Like any other companion animal, chickens need enrichment to make them healthy and happy. No one likes to be bored over and over and over again. Always have an enrichment plan for your bird. House your chicken with other chickens for social enrichment. Add a mirror for your chicken to look at their reflection, but it varies from bird to bird. For physical enrichment, add stumps, small ladders and ramps in your coop for them to explore and climb. Add some branches for perches (roost) and secure them. You can provide dust baths for your chicken. Add a bucket and fill it with fine dirt if you're keeping them indoors. For nutritional enrichment, add some PVC pipes and put ends on it. Drill some holes on the tube and it then becomes a food dispenser as your birds roll and peck at it. Some puzzle feeders made for dogs can also be used as well to entertain your chicken. For visual enrichment, put some TV shows and movies on with your chicken. They will be happy to watch them. For auditory enrichment, put some calming and soothing music for your chicken to prevent stress and anxiety.
Common health issues in chickens
Some common health issues that chickens have include:
Here's a good article published by @BYC Support on bumblefoot and how to treat it, one of the diseases mentioned on this care guide. https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...our-chickens-with-surgery-graphic-pics.47705/
Chicken calls and what they mean
Chickens have more than 30 different vocalisations, and each one is unique to them. There are different calls of chickens and each one have their own meaning.
Alarm: This call is a series of quick clucking noises. As the threat, such as a dog, comes closer, the call is much quicker. It is usually called by roosters to hens in his group. For aerial predators, it is much louder, usually a scream. Your hens will run for cover as your rooster alarms them from a hawk or falcon.
Purring: This call is a sign that your chicken is utter and pure content. It is known as trilling and is usually made on the syrinx. The sound is made by vibrations of the syrinx, which makes the purring noise. Purring can be made by broody chickens and happy chickens.
Hen to chicks call: This happens when mother hens are talking to their chicks. They warble using their syrinx to communicate to them. Hens start calling when the chicks aren't even out of the eggs yet and ready to hatch. She clucks to them to follow her voice and to keep them out of trouble.
Chick calls: The most common call of chicks are loud peeping. It shows how they're feeling too. When they are panicking or in fear, the call is higher pitched and louder. The peeping is lower pitched and slower, meaning they're happy.
Intelligence
Chooks are known to be smart animals, possibly even smarter than dogs. Chickens owned by owners have been known to play noughts and crosses, use dog agility courses and enjoy hugs from their owners. Even though they don't have large brains like dolphins, they are capable of using these things mentioned in the guide. These things make chickens one of the smartest birds in the world. That's why animal rights organisations such as Kinder World (an animal rights organisation that edits other user's videos as compilations) and Animals Australia show these videos in order to make people go vegan.
Breeding and egg incubation
How do I breed chooks? It's quite easy, all you need is a rooster and a hen. A ratio of one rooster of every 4-5 hens is needed so he can try to woo them all and copulate. Copulation usually involves the rooster's papilla touching the hen's cloaca, known as a cloacal kiss. It usually happens in the springtime (September-November in AUS, March-May in UK), so expect your bird to be busy and ready to brood their eggs. The egg develops through the ovary and works its way into the cloaca over time. The bird then releases egg through cloacal muscle movement for the egg to get out. It then makes a popping sound as it's completely out. The hen starts to be broody and protective over her eggs. Be careful when getting close to her, she will nip you in aggression. An incubator is available for eggs without their hen. Eggs may be collected while the she is away and put in a special incubator. The incubation period lasts for 21 days before the chicks hatch. There are various incubators available online and in your local livestock shop.
Chick care
Chicks are fragile offspring, so they require special care. You need to put them under a heat source when you are keeping them indoors. A large brooder is always needed for chicks, it is the source of warmth for them. This area should be circular and expandable for them. A good heat lamp is needed to warm the chicks. The temperature under the heat lamp should be 95 degrees Fahrenheit, and lower the temperature by 5 degrees Fahrenheit until you reach 65 degrees. However, it can be a dangerous heat source, even when carefully used. Some wood shavings or sawdust commonly brought on pet stores should be the bedding for your brooder. Place the bedding in about 3-4 inches deep to keep the brooder dry and odour-free. Always provide 18-22 hours of lighting for the first few weeks, then reduce it to 16 hours for the growing period, but it may not always work for all chicks. The Brinsea EcoGlow is an example of an alternative to heat lamps as it is not dangerous and behaves more like a mother hen than a heat lamp. Feed chicks a special crumble diet for the first few weeks of their life. There are medicated and non-medicated feeds. Medicated feeds contain amprolium, which help protects chicks from coccidiosis, a fatal disease which can kill your birds. Non medicated feeds don't have amprolium. Always purchase vaccinated chicks and chickens. But you need to learn where they were vaccinated and what they are vaccinated with. Chicks should be transitioned to layer feed at 18 weeks old. Layer feed should NOT be fed to chickens under 18 weeks old. It contains calcium and protein, which helps them grow and be healthy.
How to care for disabled chickens
Disabled chickens are the hardest type of chicken to care for if you're a beginner. Most disabled chickens are permanently non-ambulatory. You need to assess the bird and research their history of their disability and other impairments such as going blind and having a crossed bill. It is important to know where the disability came from, from being born with it or developed it through injury. To start with, give the chicken a safe place free of any distractions and interruptions from other birds. When kept outdoors, keep them in a grassy area with a sand substrate with some dirt. When kept indoors, offer them a thick carpet or a large cushion. Always pay attention on how they react when kept in these areas. Some do well, others try to run away from the owner. Your disabled chicken needs frequent monitoring. Monitoring is important because you don't want a bad situation happening to them in your eyes. Establish a schedule for the day such as comfort, food/water access, temperature, etc. A phone alarm can be used for waking hours and to go outside.
Non-ambulatory chickens should have different varieties of bedding when kept outdoors and large cushions indoors. Providing the correct substrate is critical both outdoors and indoors. Good bedding for outdoors is straw and wood shavings. Indoors should be cushions and pillows, and other safe things that may be used. Some birds have slings, therapy chairs and carts to help them stand in parts or all of the day. A sling can be made out of soft fabric with holes cut to fit their feet and lifted to the appropriate height. This setup may not be comfortable for the chicken, risking themself on getting their legs tangled. Soft-side dog playpens can be your chicken's playpen. These are portable and withstand weather. Playpens can be filled with different substrate for your chicken to peck on and to explore their surroundings. Modular dog pens are also a good option when you keep disabled chickens in the outdoors. They offer a large exercise area for your bird. Medium-coarse sand is used for the pen and also dirt as well. Disabled chickens feel safest when in a slightly elevated space, such as a couch. Beds and baskets are mobile and are good beds for your chicken.
Cleaning your pen is the same as any other chicken enclosure. Check your pen if there is chicken faeces and clean it up often to prevent disease and infection that may be lurking in your pen. Bedding should be changed first thing in mornings. Then birds need to be checked throughout the day, 1-3 hours at the most, with faeces removed and the bedding is changed. A comb and baby wipes work well for cleanup for disabled chickens. Spray the outdoor pen with powder against mites and lice.
How to care for true bantam chickens
True bantams, such as the Belgian d'Uccle, Mugellese, Pekin Bantam, Rosecomb and Sebright, have the same care as other chicken breeds such as the Australorp or Rhode Island Red. Their size makes them great beginning and ornamental birds. These birds are smaller than the average chicken and probably more fragile. The coop size should be 8 square feet per pair, with the run space being 20 square feet per pair, with 4 and 10 square feet respectively per bird. The more space, the better. Some breeds have feathered feet, which should be trimmed in order not to soil them via mud. Bantam chicks are much smaller than the normal chick. Be careful when handling chicks and adults, as rough handling can cause injuries and even broken bones. The nest boxes for bantams in their coop are 25-30cm cubed. Bantams are known to lay very small eggs, especially in the breeding season. Always remember to regularly monitor your bantams for any signs of illness or injury. Provide regular veterinary care, including vaccinations and deworming. Keep their living area clean, provide dust baths for natural mite and lice control and practice good biosecurity to prevent the spread of diseases.
Differences between commercial layer chickens and Rhode Island Reds
The hens of commercial laying breeds, such as ISA browns and Hy-Line browns, and Rhode Island Reds are similar. It's important to know the differences before you get those breeds. They have similar colouration and eye colour, but different in comb type, weight and egg size. ISA browns and Hy-Line browns are smaller than the Rhode Island Red in weight, weighing 1.8kg and 2.2kg respectively. RIRs (Rhode Island Reds) in the other hand, weigh 2.99kg in size. IBs (ISA browns) and HLBs (Hy-Line browns) have large to very large eggs while RIRs lay large eggs. IBs and HLBs have a single comb, while RIRs have a single or rose comb. IBs and HLBs are bred primarily for egg laying and sometimes meat, while RIRs is a dual purpose breed, producing eggs and meat. IBs and HLBs produce 300-330 eggs a year while RIRs produce 24-250 eggs a year.
Plants for chickens
There a lot of chicken-friendly plants to plant in the backyard. Here are some of them and their benefits, as shown on a table:
Raising meat chickens (and how to cull them for your roast dish)
Warning: This section will mention the slaughter of chickens. If you're squeamish, do not read this section.
There are various ways to raise meat chickens, especially breeds that are raised for meat or dual purpose breeds. Research which breed is suitable for your roast chicken and other chicken recipes. Breeds raised for meat include New Hampshire Red, Australorp, Buff Orpington, Cornish Cross and Jersey Giant. Heritage breeds are typically better than commercial hybrids because of their size and versatility. The commercial hybrids are better for the taste. Keep your meat chickens in a large, spacious coop depending on the number of chickens you are keeping. Make sure you have appropriate feed and clean water at all times. Before processing the birds when they are ready to be large enough, you'll need to think of a method of slaughter, such as humane slaughter, depending on your preferences.
Slaughtering and processing: Gather the necessary equipment, which may include: Sharp knives, killing cones or a killing stand, scalding tank or hot water (for feather removal), plucking machine or plucking by hand, evisceration tools (gloves, gutting knife, scissors), cleaning supplies (buckets, soap, water) and coolers (Esky) for chilling the meat.
Prepare a clean and sanitised processing area, separate from where you raise the chickens. Catch each chicken individually and place them in a killing cone or on a killing stand. You can stun the chickens using a mechanical stunner. Quickly and humanely cull the chicken by cutting their throat or using an approved method. Another way to kill chickens are using an axe to decapitate the bird, however this is not humane. After bleeding out, immerse the chicken in hot water (about 63-66°C) for 2 minutes to loosen feathers. You should be able to pluck the feathers easily. Pluck the feathers by hand or use a plucking machine if you have one. Remove the head and feet. Eviscerate the chicken by carefully making an incision around the vent and removing the guts and other internal organs. Be cautious not to puncture the intestines. Rinse the chicken thoroughly with clean water to remove any remaining debris or blood. Chill the chicken immediately in a cooler filled with ice to bring their temperature down rapidly. This will prevent bacterial growth.
Packaging and storage: Once the chickens are thoroughly chilled, they can be packaged for storage or immediate use. Use food-safe bags, vacuum sealing or butcher paper to wrap and package the chickens. Label each package with the date of processing and any other relevant information. Store the packaged chickens in a freezer at -18°C to maintain quality and safety. Thoroughly clean and sanitise all equipment and the processing area to prevent cross-contamination.
Egg-collecting
Collecting eggs are an easy task. All you need is an egg basket to collect them and some gloves. Here is a list of things to do when collecting eggs:
Conclusion
The chicken is a loveable bird that farmers enjoy taking care of them. The chicken is a symbol of the farmyard for centuries, and it's easy to know why. They are intelligent and curious, they come in different colours and breeds, and have the famous wattles on their heads. Unfortunately, these birds are one of the most abused animals on the planet. If you're going to be a good chicken parent without the factory/free range farm treatment, read this care guide. It will have everything you need. If you have any questions regarding chicken care, ask the friendly BYC team.
This article, written by me in my own words, covers everything from caring for them to chicken calls and their meaning, caring for chicks to disabled chickens. I hope that you will read this article because everyone knows the basics of chicken care. Chickens are an old favourite to the BackYard Chickens forum, but chickens and chicks have special care needs, like any other companion animal. There are questions such as: 'What enrichment do chickens need?' or 'How big the coop must be for a few chickens?'. Find out with this ultimate care guide for chickens.
About the chicken (and interesting facts about them)
The chicken (Gallus gallus domesticus) is the most widespread farmyard bird, numbering in the billions. There are more than 1600 chicken breeds worldwide. Intelligent and sentient, the chicken is primarily kept for its meat and eggs. The total population of chickens are 34.4 billion compared to humans' 8 billion. Australia has 100 million chickens, while the US has 9 billion chickens. There are 50 billion chickens raised for the meat industry and 136 million chickens are killed, in total, for meat and eggs (chooks who don't lay eggs anymore) every day. These clever birds are the closest living relatives to the Tyrannosaurus rex. Another interesting fact about chickens is that they have more bones on the neck than giraffes. These are called ‘pneumatic bones’. They actually form part of chickens’ respiratory systems and work with the lungs to help them breathe oxygen and remove carbon dioxide. Wild and domestic chickens survive for 8 to 15 years in their natural environment.
Chickens use vision as their main sense, and their colour vision is very well developed and designed to be used in brightly lit conditions. Their vision, and other birds' vision may be better than ours because they can see ultraviolet light too. Chickens communicate with more than 30 vocalisations, each with a distinct meaning, including warning their friends about different types of predators or letting their mothers know whether they’re comfortable. Chickens also dream. They experience REM (rapid eye movement) during sleep. Chooks know who's boss. They form a social hierarchy known as a pecking order. All of them know their place on the ladder. Mother hens talk to their unborn young, and they chirp back through their shells. Scientists are trying to find a reason why this happens. They can navigate using the sun, which helps them find food and water and even know what time it is.
The beginning...
Before committing to new chickens, check your local government website for regulations. After you have done that and checked their regulations, you're good to go! Purchase or adopt vaccinated chickens from a reliable source as they are easily prone to respiratory diseases. Day old chickens usually cost around $12 each. You should expect to have them vaccinated but unsexed. Pure bred chicks are available from around 4 weeks of age. For a point of lay hen, common varieties cost around $26 each. Then there’s pure bred chickens which are available from around 4 weeks of age and they will cost around $75 each.
First, it’s important to understand that all chickens require consistent care and live relatively long lives if they’re healthy and happy. Some breeds can live a decade or longer, so you should be ready to keep chickens for their entire lives. It’s a long-term commitment. You must be willing to provide a safe environment for your hens with space for them to roam around and partake in natural behaviors like scratching and dust bathing. You’ll also need funds for a coop, feed, and numerous other supplies.
Now that I got chooks, what do I need?
You will need a chicken coop in your home or farm that is properly ventilated and secure so predators such as domestic cats don't get in. Pre-made chicken coops, especially medium-large ones, can be very pricey. However, you may be able to find a used coop locally by asking around or searching community websites such as Gumtree. If you’re handy, consider turning an old shed into a spacious coop. You can find cheap used sheds in great condition on sites like Craigslist and Gumtree, then easily create nesting boxes and a roost. Reinforce the coop with chicken wire that goes underground by 35cm to deter any digging predators and to prevent pests. Cover the floor with about 8cm of sawdust substrate, straw substrate or sand substrate to add comfort to your chicken enclosure and encourage foraging. Give your chicken room to enjoy the outdoors. You can even let them roam free in your backyard if it’s fenced properly and there’s no risk of injury. The size of the coop depends on the breed of chicken you are looking to care for. Your coop needs perches (wood), nesting boxes and substrate. There are three sizes of coop in BYC, small, medium and large. Small is used for keeping two-three chickens, medium for five-seven chickens and large for 8 or more chickens.
Standard breeds: 4 square feet of coop space per bird; 8 square feet of run space per bird.
Standard heavy breeds: more than 8 square feet of coop space per bird; more than 16 square feet of run space per bird.
Your coop needs nest boxes for hens to lay their eggs. For an average sized hen, the adequate depth and nest size needs to be 30cm cubed. Bantam breeds can have nesting boxes slightly smaller at 25cm cubed. Larger breeds may require nesting boxes larger at 35cm cubed.
Water dishes are also required for chickens. Refill it daily or weekly to make sure that fresh water is always available and clean them every few weeks to prevent infection. Waterers can be easily brought from livestock stores or your local pet store if you have backyard chickens.
Here's a good article published by @DobieLover on their chicken coop and how they built it:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-mulligan.74743/
Bedding
The bedding depends on what coop you are owning. If you pick sawdust or wood shavings, this is a good bedding for your chicken. It has low ammonia levels, compostable and an excellent ease of use. However, it is flammable, have lots of mould and can cause liver damage, respiratory damage and some cancers. Sand is a good alternative to wood shavings and sawdust because it is clean, a low insect load and insulates the coop to be cooler in the summer. Do not use play sand in your coop because it is fine-grained and dangerous for your bird. There is a risk for cancer and silicate pneumoconiosis in some sands. Medium-coarse grained sand is best for your chicken coop. Straw is another good alternative for your chicken coop because it is easy to find, keeps chickens warm in the winter and excellent use of composting and moisture absorption. The risks of straw is that they contain insects, are flammable and have a lot of mould. Straw can cause respiratory diseases if the straw is too fine.
Grooming
Chickens LOVE dust baths, so provide one for your coop by digging a hole and adding some fine dirt in an empty area when outdoors. It helps them get rid of mites and lice that may be on their bodies. If you have set up a specific dust bathing area for your brood ( a group of chickens is called a brood), you need to make sure that the area is maintained so it can serve it’s purpose of keeping your hens and roosters squeaky clean! Clean out bird faeces regularly, and completely refresh the contents per every few weeks. Chickens need their nails clipped once or twice a year to prevent nail overgrowth.
Feeding
Chickens are omnivorous. A good quality commercial poultry feed should be the main component of your chickens’ diet to make sure they get all the nutrients they need. These feeds can come in pellet, mash or crumbed forms and are made up of a mix of grains (corn, oats, soybeans), grit (ground oyster shell or limestone) and vitamins (calcium). Feed can be provided in a feed dispenser or container, and other seeds and grains (such as wheat and corn) could also be scattered in the environment to supplement their diet and encourage natural foraging behaviour. Your bird's feeding pattern differs from age, breed and sex. Do not feed chickens poisonous foods such as chocolate, avocado, citrus, garlic and raw potato, and high fat foods.
Coop cleaning
A weekly/bi-weekly coop clean is as easy as following these steps:
- Take out anything that can be removed.
- Sweep out old bedding.
- Clean out the nesting boxes.
- Sprinkle powder to kill mites, lice and other insects.
- Put in new bedding.
- Refill feeder and reassemble coop.
Enrichment
Like any other companion animal, chickens need enrichment to make them healthy and happy. No one likes to be bored over and over and over again. Always have an enrichment plan for your bird. House your chicken with other chickens for social enrichment. Add a mirror for your chicken to look at their reflection, but it varies from bird to bird. For physical enrichment, add stumps, small ladders and ramps in your coop for them to explore and climb. Add some branches for perches (roost) and secure them. You can provide dust baths for your chicken. Add a bucket and fill it with fine dirt if you're keeping them indoors. For nutritional enrichment, add some PVC pipes and put ends on it. Drill some holes on the tube and it then becomes a food dispenser as your birds roll and peck at it. Some puzzle feeders made for dogs can also be used as well to entertain your chicken. For visual enrichment, put some TV shows and movies on with your chicken. They will be happy to watch them. For auditory enrichment, put some calming and soothing music for your chicken to prevent stress and anxiety.
Common health issues in chickens
Some common health issues that chickens have include:
- Bumblefoot- A staph infection that enters through a cut through a chicken's leg.
- Newcastle disease- A disease that only affects birds and cause illness and death quickly if not treated.
- Avian influenza- A fatal disease that kills bird more quickly than any other disease. Infected birds show breathing difficulties, a swollen head, purple colouration in the wattles and even death.
- Fowlpox- A disease that is transferrable by mosquitoes characterised by nodular lesions on un-feathered skin.
- Coccidiosis- A fatal protozoal disease that can cause diarrhea and weight loss which is spread through chicken faeces.
Here's a good article published by @BYC Support on bumblefoot and how to treat it, one of the diseases mentioned on this care guide. https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...our-chickens-with-surgery-graphic-pics.47705/
Chicken calls and what they mean
Chickens have more than 30 different vocalisations, and each one is unique to them. There are different calls of chickens and each one have their own meaning.
Alarm: This call is a series of quick clucking noises. As the threat, such as a dog, comes closer, the call is much quicker. It is usually called by roosters to hens in his group. For aerial predators, it is much louder, usually a scream. Your hens will run for cover as your rooster alarms them from a hawk or falcon.
Purring: This call is a sign that your chicken is utter and pure content. It is known as trilling and is usually made on the syrinx. The sound is made by vibrations of the syrinx, which makes the purring noise. Purring can be made by broody chickens and happy chickens.
Hen to chicks call: This happens when mother hens are talking to their chicks. They warble using their syrinx to communicate to them. Hens start calling when the chicks aren't even out of the eggs yet and ready to hatch. She clucks to them to follow her voice and to keep them out of trouble.
Chick calls: The most common call of chicks are loud peeping. It shows how they're feeling too. When they are panicking or in fear, the call is higher pitched and louder. The peeping is lower pitched and slower, meaning they're happy.
Intelligence
Chooks are known to be smart animals, possibly even smarter than dogs. Chickens owned by owners have been known to play noughts and crosses, use dog agility courses and enjoy hugs from their owners. Even though they don't have large brains like dolphins, they are capable of using these things mentioned in the guide. These things make chickens one of the smartest birds in the world. That's why animal rights organisations such as Kinder World (an animal rights organisation that edits other user's videos as compilations) and Animals Australia show these videos in order to make people go vegan.
Breeding and egg incubation
How do I breed chooks? It's quite easy, all you need is a rooster and a hen. A ratio of one rooster of every 4-5 hens is needed so he can try to woo them all and copulate. Copulation usually involves the rooster's papilla touching the hen's cloaca, known as a cloacal kiss. It usually happens in the springtime (September-November in AUS, March-May in UK), so expect your bird to be busy and ready to brood their eggs. The egg develops through the ovary and works its way into the cloaca over time. The bird then releases egg through cloacal muscle movement for the egg to get out. It then makes a popping sound as it's completely out. The hen starts to be broody and protective over her eggs. Be careful when getting close to her, she will nip you in aggression. An incubator is available for eggs without their hen. Eggs may be collected while the she is away and put in a special incubator. The incubation period lasts for 21 days before the chicks hatch. There are various incubators available online and in your local livestock shop.
Chick care
Chicks are fragile offspring, so they require special care. You need to put them under a heat source when you are keeping them indoors. A large brooder is always needed for chicks, it is the source of warmth for them. This area should be circular and expandable for them. A good heat lamp is needed to warm the chicks. The temperature under the heat lamp should be 95 degrees Fahrenheit, and lower the temperature by 5 degrees Fahrenheit until you reach 65 degrees. However, it can be a dangerous heat source, even when carefully used. Some wood shavings or sawdust commonly brought on pet stores should be the bedding for your brooder. Place the bedding in about 3-4 inches deep to keep the brooder dry and odour-free. Always provide 18-22 hours of lighting for the first few weeks, then reduce it to 16 hours for the growing period, but it may not always work for all chicks. The Brinsea EcoGlow is an example of an alternative to heat lamps as it is not dangerous and behaves more like a mother hen than a heat lamp. Feed chicks a special crumble diet for the first few weeks of their life. There are medicated and non-medicated feeds. Medicated feeds contain amprolium, which help protects chicks from coccidiosis, a fatal disease which can kill your birds. Non medicated feeds don't have amprolium. Always purchase vaccinated chicks and chickens. But you need to learn where they were vaccinated and what they are vaccinated with. Chicks should be transitioned to layer feed at 18 weeks old. Layer feed should NOT be fed to chickens under 18 weeks old. It contains calcium and protein, which helps them grow and be healthy.
How to care for disabled chickens
Disabled chickens are the hardest type of chicken to care for if you're a beginner. Most disabled chickens are permanently non-ambulatory. You need to assess the bird and research their history of their disability and other impairments such as going blind and having a crossed bill. It is important to know where the disability came from, from being born with it or developed it through injury. To start with, give the chicken a safe place free of any distractions and interruptions from other birds. When kept outdoors, keep them in a grassy area with a sand substrate with some dirt. When kept indoors, offer them a thick carpet or a large cushion. Always pay attention on how they react when kept in these areas. Some do well, others try to run away from the owner. Your disabled chicken needs frequent monitoring. Monitoring is important because you don't want a bad situation happening to them in your eyes. Establish a schedule for the day such as comfort, food/water access, temperature, etc. A phone alarm can be used for waking hours and to go outside.
Non-ambulatory chickens should have different varieties of bedding when kept outdoors and large cushions indoors. Providing the correct substrate is critical both outdoors and indoors. Good bedding for outdoors is straw and wood shavings. Indoors should be cushions and pillows, and other safe things that may be used. Some birds have slings, therapy chairs and carts to help them stand in parts or all of the day. A sling can be made out of soft fabric with holes cut to fit their feet and lifted to the appropriate height. This setup may not be comfortable for the chicken, risking themself on getting their legs tangled. Soft-side dog playpens can be your chicken's playpen. These are portable and withstand weather. Playpens can be filled with different substrate for your chicken to peck on and to explore their surroundings. Modular dog pens are also a good option when you keep disabled chickens in the outdoors. They offer a large exercise area for your bird. Medium-coarse sand is used for the pen and also dirt as well. Disabled chickens feel safest when in a slightly elevated space, such as a couch. Beds and baskets are mobile and are good beds for your chicken.
Cleaning your pen is the same as any other chicken enclosure. Check your pen if there is chicken faeces and clean it up often to prevent disease and infection that may be lurking in your pen. Bedding should be changed first thing in mornings. Then birds need to be checked throughout the day, 1-3 hours at the most, with faeces removed and the bedding is changed. A comb and baby wipes work well for cleanup for disabled chickens. Spray the outdoor pen with powder against mites and lice.
How to care for true bantam chickens
True bantams, such as the Belgian d'Uccle, Mugellese, Pekin Bantam, Rosecomb and Sebright, have the same care as other chicken breeds such as the Australorp or Rhode Island Red. Their size makes them great beginning and ornamental birds. These birds are smaller than the average chicken and probably more fragile. The coop size should be 8 square feet per pair, with the run space being 20 square feet per pair, with 4 and 10 square feet respectively per bird. The more space, the better. Some breeds have feathered feet, which should be trimmed in order not to soil them via mud. Bantam chicks are much smaller than the normal chick. Be careful when handling chicks and adults, as rough handling can cause injuries and even broken bones. The nest boxes for bantams in their coop are 25-30cm cubed. Bantams are known to lay very small eggs, especially in the breeding season. Always remember to regularly monitor your bantams for any signs of illness or injury. Provide regular veterinary care, including vaccinations and deworming. Keep their living area clean, provide dust baths for natural mite and lice control and practice good biosecurity to prevent the spread of diseases.
Differences between commercial layer chickens and Rhode Island Reds
The hens of commercial laying breeds, such as ISA browns and Hy-Line browns, and Rhode Island Reds are similar. It's important to know the differences before you get those breeds. They have similar colouration and eye colour, but different in comb type, weight and egg size. ISA browns and Hy-Line browns are smaller than the Rhode Island Red in weight, weighing 1.8kg and 2.2kg respectively. RIRs (Rhode Island Reds) in the other hand, weigh 2.99kg in size. IBs (ISA browns) and HLBs (Hy-Line browns) have large to very large eggs while RIRs lay large eggs. IBs and HLBs have a single comb, while RIRs have a single or rose comb. IBs and HLBs are bred primarily for egg laying and sometimes meat, while RIRs is a dual purpose breed, producing eggs and meat. IBs and HLBs produce 300-330 eggs a year while RIRs produce 24-250 eggs a year.
Plants for chickens
There a lot of chicken-friendly plants to plant in the backyard. Here are some of them and their benefits, as shown on a table:
| Plants and flowers | Benefits |
| Lavender | Insect repellent, calming for chickens |
| Peas | Excellent source of nutrition, carbs and protein |
| Thyme | Antibiotic, good for chicken health, especially winter |
| Raspberry (thornless) | Antidioxant-rich, good for chicken health |
Raising meat chickens (and how to cull them for your roast dish)
Warning: This section will mention the slaughter of chickens. If you're squeamish, do not read this section.
There are various ways to raise meat chickens, especially breeds that are raised for meat or dual purpose breeds. Research which breed is suitable for your roast chicken and other chicken recipes. Breeds raised for meat include New Hampshire Red, Australorp, Buff Orpington, Cornish Cross and Jersey Giant. Heritage breeds are typically better than commercial hybrids because of their size and versatility. The commercial hybrids are better for the taste. Keep your meat chickens in a large, spacious coop depending on the number of chickens you are keeping. Make sure you have appropriate feed and clean water at all times. Before processing the birds when they are ready to be large enough, you'll need to think of a method of slaughter, such as humane slaughter, depending on your preferences.
Slaughtering and processing: Gather the necessary equipment, which may include: Sharp knives, killing cones or a killing stand, scalding tank or hot water (for feather removal), plucking machine or plucking by hand, evisceration tools (gloves, gutting knife, scissors), cleaning supplies (buckets, soap, water) and coolers (Esky) for chilling the meat.
Prepare a clean and sanitised processing area, separate from where you raise the chickens. Catch each chicken individually and place them in a killing cone or on a killing stand. You can stun the chickens using a mechanical stunner. Quickly and humanely cull the chicken by cutting their throat or using an approved method. Another way to kill chickens are using an axe to decapitate the bird, however this is not humane. After bleeding out, immerse the chicken in hot water (about 63-66°C) for 2 minutes to loosen feathers. You should be able to pluck the feathers easily. Pluck the feathers by hand or use a plucking machine if you have one. Remove the head and feet. Eviscerate the chicken by carefully making an incision around the vent and removing the guts and other internal organs. Be cautious not to puncture the intestines. Rinse the chicken thoroughly with clean water to remove any remaining debris or blood. Chill the chicken immediately in a cooler filled with ice to bring their temperature down rapidly. This will prevent bacterial growth.
Packaging and storage: Once the chickens are thoroughly chilled, they can be packaged for storage or immediate use. Use food-safe bags, vacuum sealing or butcher paper to wrap and package the chickens. Label each package with the date of processing and any other relevant information. Store the packaged chickens in a freezer at -18°C to maintain quality and safety. Thoroughly clean and sanitise all equipment and the processing area to prevent cross-contamination.
Egg-collecting
Collecting eggs are an easy task. All you need is an egg basket to collect them and some gloves. Here is a list of things to do when collecting eggs:
- Use something clean and easy to carry eggs in. A basket or bucket with a handle works well.
- Before you start handling the eggs, wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water to reduce the risk of transferring dirt and/or bacteria to the eggs.
- Collect eggs in the morning or early afternoon when chickens are more likely to have laid their eggs. This reduces the chances of encountering partially frozen or dirty eggs.
- Approach the chicken coop or nesting area quietly and calmly. Sudden movements or loud noises can startle the chickens and cause them to accidentally break or dirty the eggs. Make sure the nest box is well-feathered.
- Wearing disposable gloves can help keep your hands clean and reduce the risk of contamination. This step is particularly important if you have concerns about salmonella.
- Carefully check each nest box for eggs. Gently lift any chickens that may be inside, but do so gently to avoid causing stress or injury to the birds.
- Pick up each egg one at a time, using your hand or a small scoop if preferred. Hold the egg gently but firmly to avoid dropping or cracking it.
- Examine each egg for any cracks, dirt, or faeces. If an egg is cracked or dirty set it aside for later inspection and cleaning. Do not put damaged eggs in your egg basket.
- Carefully place the clean and undamaged eggs in your egg basket. Be gentle to avoid jostling the eggs, as this can lead to cracking.
- After collecting all the eggs, gently close the nest boxes if you opened them. Leave the coop or nesting area quietly to avoid startling the chickens.
- Once inside wash any dirty eggs with warm water and a mild detergent if necessary. Dry them thoroughly and store them in the refrigerator.
- Freshly collected eggs can be used for a variety of tasty and wholesome dishes, from fried egg to baked goods such as tarts.
Conclusion
The chicken is a loveable bird that farmers enjoy taking care of them. The chicken is a symbol of the farmyard for centuries, and it's easy to know why. They are intelligent and curious, they come in different colours and breeds, and have the famous wattles on their heads. Unfortunately, these birds are one of the most abused animals on the planet. If you're going to be a good chicken parent without the factory/free range farm treatment, read this care guide. It will have everything you need. If you have any questions regarding chicken care, ask the friendly BYC team.
