This was my first coop, made in 2012. It can comfortably hold six standard-sized chickens. We actually got this idea online, but I don't remember where. This one is pretty hard to measure and describe, but because I didn't take pictures during the construction, it will have to do.
At first we planned to move it around the yard so the chickens could peck at new grass every month, but every time we went on vacation, the chickens were locked in the coop full time for however long we were gone. We decided the solution was to build a predator proof run so the chickens could get some stretching space while still being locked up. And while we were at it, we decided to connect it to the new coop (the Tall Coop) too. But it wasn't worth the effort to hook and unhook the coops every time we wanted to move them, so they became stationary. Though maybe someday I'll unhook the Triangle Coop and move it around the yard again!
So yes, this is a tractor coop. In this next picture you can see the poles (well, boards) you hold onto to move it.
Notice the poles on the side, as well as the metal roof and wire bottom.
The coop is messy. But let's face it: chicken keeping is not clean. This coop has survived eight years of chickens, its not going to be sparkly.
This coop starts with a wooden frame. The top is covered with a screwed down piece of sheet metal, and the bottom half is double wrapped in chicken wire. Because of the wire below, no animals can dig in.
As you already know, the coop has two levels. The top has two nesting boxes and one roost. There are two top doors, one on each side. When I built the run I didn't think it all through, and now it is hard to open the side door on the nesting box side. I can only open it a few inches, making it hard to grab the eggs.
Triangle Coop top from the roost side (flash was on).
Triangle Coop nesting boxes (flash was on).
Bottom of the Triangle Coop, back door view.
The wire on the run isn't completely secured to the Triangle Coop, because that would make it completely impossible to collect eggs. We didn't think this was a problem until one week a skunk got in and literally cuddled with the chickens while eating all the eggs. After this happened we nailed down a board on top to block the entrance. But after a couple of years, the board had rotted so badly it was practically useless. So as of today I have some bin lids and a board held down with a brick on top of the rotted board.
In this picture you can see the "skunk block" and the board (and bin lid) blocking the entrance to the run (read a few paragraphs below).
The bottom has the food and water. You can access the water from the water door. The water door has a little hole at the top to make room for a hose. In summer we can connect the hose to the garden so the water will fill up automatically.
Triangle Coop water door. It is held down with both a a twisting nail in the upper right corner and a cinder brick.
There used to be a built in feeder at the back end of the coop, but in May 2020 we took it out and replaced it with a door so we could get into the coop easier.
Back view of the coop. At the bottom you can see the back door secured with a latch. once again, the two boards sticking out are what you can hold when you move the coop.
We used to have a door on the other side of the coop but when we built the run (in 2015) we took it out. It's still a entrance, it just doesn't have a closing door. Now whenever I want to close this coop off from the run I put a board or two in between (see a few pictures up).
Pros:
Cons:
I don't want to bore you with measurements but if you want them you can find them by clicking the 'Spoiler'.
I hope this article will inspire and help you build your own coop! Good luck!
P.S. If you want to see more of my builds, check out this link: SoftSilkie's Farmyard
At first we planned to move it around the yard so the chickens could peck at new grass every month, but every time we went on vacation, the chickens were locked in the coop full time for however long we were gone. We decided the solution was to build a predator proof run so the chickens could get some stretching space while still being locked up. And while we were at it, we decided to connect it to the new coop (the Tall Coop) too. But it wasn't worth the effort to hook and unhook the coops every time we wanted to move them, so they became stationary. Though maybe someday I'll unhook the Triangle Coop and move it around the yard again!
So yes, this is a tractor coop. In this next picture you can see the poles (well, boards) you hold onto to move it.
Notice the poles on the side, as well as the metal roof and wire bottom.
The coop is messy. But let's face it: chicken keeping is not clean. This coop has survived eight years of chickens, its not going to be sparkly.
This coop starts with a wooden frame. The top is covered with a screwed down piece of sheet metal, and the bottom half is double wrapped in chicken wire. Because of the wire below, no animals can dig in.
As you already know, the coop has two levels. The top has two nesting boxes and one roost. There are two top doors, one on each side. When I built the run I didn't think it all through, and now it is hard to open the side door on the nesting box side. I can only open it a few inches, making it hard to grab the eggs.
Triangle Coop top from the roost side (flash was on).
Triangle Coop nesting boxes (flash was on).
Bottom of the Triangle Coop, back door view.
The wire on the run isn't completely secured to the Triangle Coop, because that would make it completely impossible to collect eggs. We didn't think this was a problem until one week a skunk got in and literally cuddled with the chickens while eating all the eggs. After this happened we nailed down a board on top to block the entrance. But after a couple of years, the board had rotted so badly it was practically useless. So as of today I have some bin lids and a board held down with a brick on top of the rotted board.
In this picture you can see the "skunk block" and the board (and bin lid) blocking the entrance to the run (read a few paragraphs below).
The bottom has the food and water. You can access the water from the water door. The water door has a little hole at the top to make room for a hose. In summer we can connect the hose to the garden so the water will fill up automatically.
Triangle Coop water door. It is held down with both a a twisting nail in the upper right corner and a cinder brick.
There used to be a built in feeder at the back end of the coop, but in May 2020 we took it out and replaced it with a door so we could get into the coop easier.
Back view of the coop. At the bottom you can see the back door secured with a latch. once again, the two boards sticking out are what you can hold when you move the coop.
We used to have a door on the other side of the coop but when we built the run (in 2015) we took it out. It's still a entrance, it just doesn't have a closing door. Now whenever I want to close this coop off from the run I put a board or two in between (see a few pictures up).
Pros:
- Good coop in windstorms because the top is very sheltered!
- Chickens can get sunlight and stretch their wings in the lower half.
- Snow and rain slides off the roof easily because of the sharp slant.
- Easy access to water bucket.
Cons:
- Terrible ventilation in top. For this reason I prefer to only use it as a summer coop. You can read more about ventilation in this article: Chicken Coop Ventilation - Go Out There And Cut More Holes In Your Coop!
- Top is hard to clean. You have to unscrew the screws and lift up the metal sheet to clean it.
- Hard to open the side door to collect eggs. But this is more because of the run than the coop.
I don't want to bore you with measurements but if you want them you can find them by clicking the 'Spoiler'.
All three sides are 5 feet long.
From the ground to the top it is 4.5 feet tall.
The base length is 6 feet.
Back door: 1.5 foot square.
Door to run:
Water door: 18" by 22"
Each of the sides of the top side doors are 3 feet.
Nesting box height: 1 foot
Nesting box width: 15"
Nesting box depth: 15"
Roost: It is a bumpy triangle, with each side being about 2"
Roost height: 1 foot
From the ground to the top it is 4.5 feet tall.
The base length is 6 feet.
Back door: 1.5 foot square.
Door to run:
Water door: 18" by 22"
Each of the sides of the top side doors are 3 feet.
Nesting box height: 1 foot
Nesting box width: 15"
Nesting box depth: 15"
Roost: It is a bumpy triangle, with each side being about 2"
Roost height: 1 foot
I hope this article will inspire and help you build your own coop! Good luck!
P.S. If you want to see more of my builds, check out this link: SoftSilkie's Farmyard
