My DIY Automatic Chicken Door

[jthornton]

Well 3 amps at 12 volts is 36 watts... for however long the door is moving. If the solar cell won't keep the battery charged then get a bigger one like a 25 watt solar panel.

JT

 

[Knew]

Thank you!

 

[Bronek]

"Hi there, this is awesome. Is there a way to set it up to use a light sensor instead of a timer? I worry about forgetting to change the timer and having this thing close before my hens get inside.

Thanks!"

Yes, that's what I did. Use 'Time Delay ON' timer. My setup consists power antenna, light sensor and time delay timer/relay. It can delay closing the gate to up to one hour, more than enough time to accommodate late arrivals. No need to worry about timer on off settings.. I will be checking this thread, if somebody need more details be happy to provide.

 

[Bigbluefrog]

[QUOTE="Tsheaby-
Hope you find this helpful! Enjoy![/QUOTE]
Thank you!
I just bought the parts and am looking at the diagrams to wire!
I am looking forward to having this!
Curious about solar verse electric.
Is solar very reliable and consistent in results- any thoughts on this?
I did buy electrical transformer 110 to 12 v. Plug thingie. =P
And a solar light panel - so win win I have several options.
I am leaning to electric plan.
The light may have a built in timer on the solar panel- not sure how that will work. Although attaching the separate timer eliminates that! I need more coffee

 

[Tsheaby]

[QUOTE="Tsheaby-
Hope you find this helpful! Enjoy!

Thank you!
I just bought the parts and am looking at the diagrams to wire!
I am looking forward to having this!
Curious about solar verse electric.
Is solar very reliable and consistent in results- any thoughts on this?
I did buy electrical transformer 110 to 12 v. Plug thingie. =P
And a solar light panel - so win win I have several options.
I am leaning to electric plan.
The light may have a built in timer on the solar panel- not sure how that will work. Although attaching the separate timer eliminates that! I need more coffee[/QUOTE]

It’s been an absolute game changer for us! I love having it. Over a year later and still going strong!

I think it just depends on your sun situation. We don’t have enough consistent sunlight to rely on the solar panel charging a battery consistently - maybe in the summer, but winter is a bit more difficult in my location. If you go back through some previous responses, there was some discussion on the solar setup, issues/resolutions that might be useful info!

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Mouthpear]

If I go vertically with the door, how much space is needed inside the coop to mount everything?

You could go to the side and it takes up less space. Not much but going vertical with the actuator takes up at least 8" above the door while going to the side only takes up 4" or just 2" depending the orientation you go with.

 

[Tsheaby]

You could go to the side and it takes up less space. Not much but going vertical with the actuator takes up at least 8" above the door while going to the side only takes up 4" or just 2" depending the orientation you go with.

Agreed! - you can customize it to go vertically or horizontally depending on what kind of space you’re working with. I can take measurements next time I clean out the coop but my estimate is that I have roughly 26in of vertical space with the actuator mounted above the door and it is plenty to allow the 10in door to fully shut and open. Keep in mind, I still have a silly starter coop - I had to work with the structure.

You can also consider going with a 10in actuator, which I may do if/when this actuator needs to be replaced.

 

[Mouthpear]

If I go vertically with the door, how much space is needed inside the coop to mount everything?

My apologies I forgot to mention that, if you plan on having a 12" tall door/opening and have a 12" Linear Actuator then you will need double the opening space plus at least 8" inches. So roughly 32 inches.

If you mount it to the side, you only need double the opening, vertically and 4" - 2" wider on the actual door, not the opening. So 24 inches vertical is all you need.

One more thing. I am giving estimates base on if you put the mount of the actuator at the bottom of the door (best place), but some people put the mount at the top of the door. I don't know why since it take up more vertical space. Now and then there is reason to like if The only sturdy place to mount the motor side is up higher.

 

[Mouthpear]

Agreed! - you can customize it to go vertically or horizontally depending on what kind of space you’re working with. I can take measurements next time I clean out the coop but my estimate is that I have roughly 26in of vertical space with the actuator mounted above the door and it is plenty to allow the 10in door to fully shut and open. Keep in mind, I still have a silly starter coop - I had to work with the structure.

You can also consider going with a 10in actuator, which I may do if/when this actuator needs to be replaced.

I think you are misreading what I said. I am referring to keeping the door opening motion, vertical, by placing the Actuator vertically "beside" the door, not above the door. Not changing it to open horizontally.

I will try and make a rendering /picture of how it can be installed.

 

[Mouthpear]

Agreed! - you can customize it to go vertically or horizontally depending on what kind of space you’re working with. I can take measurements next time I clean out the coop but my estimate is that I have roughly 26in of vertical space with the actuator mounted above the door and it is plenty to allow the 10in door to fully shut and open. Keep in mind, I still have a silly starter coop - I had to work with the structure.

You can also consider going with a 10in actuator, which I may do if/when this actuator needs to be replaced.

OOPS but yes you are correct on the other stuff.