How should I refinish a quarter sawn tiger stripe oak dresser?

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Before you do anything...clean all surfaces with Murphy's soap. Let it dry.
Anything you do to an "old" piece that affects the original finish will de-valuate the antique.
Once the piece is clean, you will see if there is any residue from the original finish. If not. all you may need to do is apply the Howard Feed n Wax several times over the next week, buffing each coat after it is dry. Then once a week for four weeks and then when ever you dust.

The phrase "Less is More" is fitting for "refurbishing" a vintage piece of furniture.

When I got the dresser, it looks like the previous owner had stripped the finish on. I don't see anything that shows the original finish on it, except for maybe the top 3 drawers. So at this point I am just hoping to get as close to original as I can. I will give it a good wipe down with Murphy's oil soap. I just need to move it inside. It is to cold and way too damp to bother trying to do anything to it in the garage.
 
My parents bought and sold antiques for years in the 70's and 80's. My mother always used a walnut stain on her oak. She had several pieces of quarter sawn tiger oak. Her pieces are still beautiful to this day. She would stain....and always said the color of the stain when it was wet was what it was going to look like completely finished. And she always used Deft (not spelled right) for the varnish. She would put the first coat on and sand it when it was dry....wipe it down really well to get the dust off it. Then she would apply the next coat carefully so no bubbles.....and sand that time with a finer sandpaper....on and on until the last couple of coats where she would use 0000 steel wool.

Once again all the pieces she refinished still have a wonderful color to them and wonderful finish.

And that is my two cents worth.
 
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I must admit that I am leaning towards no stain. I have a feeling that the color will even out with just an oil finish. The sealer that my FiL told me to use first is Benite (sp?) and then stain, and I may need to use more than one color. But that all scares me a little, and I think that I really should just start with the wood the way it is.
 
I'm biased but "the way it is" looks fantastic to me hehe.

And what I meant by good quality furniture wax was something like Bentley's or even Johnson's Paste wax. Not a "furniture polish" you find in the store by the Windex.
 
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I like Johnson Paste Wax also. I've used it on several pieces.

Getting the piece inside is a good idea. Damp weather can be harmful as can cold or heat.

First the wood needs to be nurished because it is probably pretty dry.

Any veneer needs to be glued, clamped or weighted until dry. Then the finish you choose can be applied.
 
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I have Howard Feed-n-Wax. It is bees wax and orange oil. Would that work? And is it better to have an oil finish and then wax over the top?
 
I'm not familiar with that kind of wax. You don't need an oil finish or to put any oil on it. Put oil on wood and you've basically got oily wood, not rehydrated wood. Oil finishes dry to a hard finish, they don't leave oily residue like the furniture polish type oils do. But an oil finish is an oil finish. You can wax over any finish, or use the wax itself as the finish. Johnson's Paste wax should be available at any grocery or hardware store. I use a wax made especially for finishing wood and it doesn't do any better job than Johnson's. Basically I'm using it up
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There are some fantastic old homes in Europe and furniture in fabulous condition whose woodwork never had anything but wax applied, especially the 'linen fold' carved paneling. It brings out the grain in a way only wax can do. And talk about simple! Put it on, buff it. Done.
 
I will go look for the Johnson's wax. I got the Howard Feed-n-Wax when I bought my spinning wheel. Maybe it is a west coast thing. I can buy it in the local hardware store.
 

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