Which type of Hardware Cloth

[Mouthpear]

I made the mistake of making our enclosed run out of 4”x2” galvanized welded wire. It worked fine for a few years until rats discovered the run. We have now had to completely enclose the welded wire with 1/2” hardware cloth because the 2” openings are big enough for rats to squeeze through, also squirrels. I wish we had used the hardware cloth to begin with. It would have saved us lots of time, energy, and $$$.

That's why I make sure to recommend 1x2 or 1x1. 1x2 mostly. 2x4 is fence wire

 

[Desertguardian]

I realized the same thing...too late. The bottom has 16 gauge but the top part has 18. 18 was definately too thin, I'll have to change it. 16 didn't seem too bad since I have it over a dog run type chain link, and wired it to stay put properly. I imagine 10 would be best but probably hard to cut (need the best tool) i did 1/2 inch space and I like it alot. btw, etsy.com has great prices if you look around.

 

[Raymond Dean White]

Like, would this be okay for the fencing? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Yard-El...t-Cage-Garden-Plant-Support-03-1002/312862087
I'm leaning towards not redoing the apron that I already did with 23 gauge because our ground tends to rather rocky where I live anyway. Digging anywhere is a pain. Hoping that's the same for foxes, though not so sure about minks and weasels. I know the mice are able to dig tunnels everywhere. Maybe if I just add more gravel on top that would do it?

When I built my coop I used treated 4x4's for the foundation and on the bottom layer I stapled 1/2" hardware cloth 16 ga. That, will keep any tunnelers out of the coop and I live in a desert so the hardware cloth will probably outlast me. I also use it for the runs and it works great.

 

[Demarvell]

We basically don't know what we're doing and our chicken coop is taking forever. I bought 23 gauge galvanized 1/4" hardware cloth thinking the higher number meant stronger and smaller holes would be better. It seems like that's wrong. So if the lower number means stronger, why not 16, rather than 19? Or is there something else to this? And I just read that 1/4" could get clogged more easily. Like with leaves? So it's harder to clean? Could someone explain to me what the difference is between PVC coated, steel coated, galvanized, etc? In the meantime I also bought 24" hardware cloth for the apron and already did 2 sides and the ventilation holes but it's 23 gauge. Is it likely that critters will get in? I'm a little worried now about the vent holes, but already paid a handyman to do that part so it's all been professionally cut, though I did the 2 aprons myself so far.

I have 23 Ga hardware cloth on the lower part of my pen, because part of it is buried, so critters are hopefully deterred from digging in to that area. I like it, and it does the job well. I used heavier chicken wire for the upper 5 feet. Works just great.

 

[arazla]

Well, we've got the 1/2" 19 gauge mostly up now. Wish I had found 16 or lower. From what I'm gathering it seems like the more layers, the better, but would someone explain the thinking here? Do you thicken the bottom half to deter animals like rats, foxes and coyotes? I believe most minks, martins and weasels can climb and will keep looking for a way in. If it were weaker or there were bigger holes near the top, wouldn't they just find a way to climb higher?

 

[arazla]

These minks and weasels are so cute, but serious little monsters that keep killing once they smell blood. I should stop watching videos about them although it's compelling. I feel a big YES for the giant jack rabbit and cat in this video, almost like when the good guy finally defeats the bad guy in a film. Unfortunately, everyone else is toast.

 

[aart]

Well, we've got the 1/2" 19 gauge mostly up now. Wish I had found 16 or lower.

Most 1/2" HC only comes in 19 gauge.....unless you special order it and it's pricey.

From what I'm gathering it seems like the more layers, the better, but would someone explain the thinking here? Do you thicken the bottom half to deter animals like rats, foxes and coyotes?

Yes, heavier gauge wire on the lower parts of wall for the bigger ground preds,
with HC over everything to keep the smaller preds out.

I believe most minks, martins and weasels can climb and will keep looking for a way in. If it were weaker or there were bigger holes near the top, wouldn't they just find a way to climb higher?

Yes.

 

[arazla]

Oh, okay, got it. So in other words, the bigger predators have more barriers that they can't just push in or chew through.

 

[NameIwish]

We basically don't know what we're doing and our chicken coop is taking forever. I bought 23 gauge galvanized 1/4" hardware cloth thinking the higher number meant stronger and smaller holes would be better. It seems like that's wrong. So if the lower number means stronger, why not 16, rather than 19? Or is there something else to this? And I just read that 1/4" could get clogged more easily. Like with leaves? So it's harder to clean? Could someone explain to me what the difference is between PVC coated, steel coated, galvanized, etc? In the meantime I also bought 24" hardware cloth for the apron and already did 2 sides and the ventilation holes but it's 23 gauge. Is it likely that critters will get in? I'm a little worried now about the vent holes, but already paid a handyman to do that part so it's all been professionally cut, though I did the 2 aprons myself so far.

First off girl, you don't need no stinkin' 'handy' man to build you a coop!

Next, write out WHY you want a coop, your objective(s) and expectations. Are you thinkin Breeding? Meat Birds? Eggs? Both? For home consumption? For amusement? For sale? For Profit? Or are you looking for pretty birds as pets or 'show' birds?
What is the ENVIRONMENT? Are you in a city, suburbs, rural area, middle of the forest? Do you have a dog? Does he/she guard teh homestead or lay about on a sofa?
Do any of your neighbors have flocks/a flock/a few birds? If so, ask them! (Look on local Craigslist to see whose selling birds and call and ask them about predation - and to see their coops while you're at it).

In my experience in Western NC, a chain link dog enclosure works as well as any of the others I've built. The holes are TOO LARGE to contain chicks, so I added chicken wire to the bottom foot or so. I built one 2' x 8' using (the 2x2' bottoms of) plastic bottle crates and doors with clear plastic recycled 'sneeze guards' from a Subway remodel for the top and chicken wire for the bottom. To date, nothing seems to have violated the space - save for rats and mice (after food scattered a bout - chickens are sloppy diners).
I have another made with 1/2" mesh flooring, chicken wire 'open' sides with 12" of 1/4" mesh along the lower sections of the 'open' sides. And the person that said teh half inch was too small meant the poop wouldn't fall through. (BEST ADVICE is to design removable floors (in coops and nest boxes) that can be removed and cleaned) The hens don't care and will lay eggs in their poo - but it might disturb you a bit.

Look online for coop designs - they are kin to anal orifices in that everyone seems to have a great coop idea. Don't get all hung up on the wire gage - unless you're hood is beset by predators that eat through steel and your (immediate) neighbors all swear by 12 gauge. Remember, when you're seeing stuff 'on the net' it's from all over heck and back and what is NEEDED in TEXAS hill country may well be a waste of time and money in Sarasota, Florida. Also consider the source(s). Most of us here, for instance, came looking for help and ideas.
From my experience, having teh hens cooped up 24/ means I lose fewer eggs - 'cause they'll lay just about anywhere - given the opportunity. but free-ranging gets me what I (and the folks at church) believe are better, richer, tastier eggs. I don't raise chickens for meat, so I don't know what to tell you if that's your game.
But a combination of cooping them 'till 10AM or so, works best for us on both counts as they tend to rest up all night, lay early in the day (except Sadie) and free-range 'till near dark.
Location of the coop may be a consideration - esp in the Winter Months. If you want to 'electrify it for some reason (Automatic door? Motion Sensor Lighting?) or water automatically. Or simply having to get to the eggs and get the feed and fill the feeders and fil the water containers. And, if you're a 'showcase' home, well you'll want an esthecctically pleasing pullet palace on your lawn.

 

[arazla]

First off girl, you don't need no stinkin' 'handy' man to build you a coop!

Next, write out WHY you want a coop, your objective(s) and expectations. Are you thinkin Breeding? Meat Birds? Eggs? Both? For home consumption? For amusement? For sale? For Profit? Or are you looking for pretty birds as pets or 'show' birds?
What is the ENVIRONMENT? Are you in a city, suburbs, rural area, middle of the forest? Do you have a dog? Does he/she guard teh homestead or lay about on a sofa?
Do any of your neighbors have flocks/a flock/a few birds? If so, ask them! (Look on local Craigslist to see whose selling birds and call and ask them about predation - and to see their coops while you're at it).

In my experience in Western NC, a chain link dog enclosure works as well as any of the others I've built. The holes are TOO LARGE to contain chicks, so I added chicken wire to the bottom foot or so. I built one 2' x 8' using (the 2x2' bottoms of) plastic bottle crates and doors with clear plastic recycled 'sneeze guards' from a Subway remodel for the top and chicken wire for the bottom. To date, nothing seems to have violated the space - save for rats and mice (after food scattered a bout - chickens are sloppy diners).
I have another made with 1/2" mesh flooring, chicken wire 'open' sides with 12" of 1/4" mesh along the lower sections of the 'open' sides. And the person that said teh half inch was too small meant the poop wouldn't fall through. (BEST ADVICE is to design removable floors (in coops and nest boxes) that can be removed and cleaned) The hens don't care and will lay eggs in their poo - but it might disturb you a bit.

Look online for coop designs - they are kin to anal orifices in that everyone seems to have a great coop idea. Don't get all hung up on the wire gage - unless you're hood is beset by predators that eat through steel and your (immediate) neighbors all swear by 12 gauge. Remember, when you're seeing stuff 'on the net' it's from all over heck and back and what is NEEDED in TEXAS hill country may well be a waste of time and money in Sarasota, Florida. Also consider the source(s). Most of us here, for instance, came looking for help and ideas.
From my experience, having teh hens cooped up 24/ means I lose fewer eggs - 'cause they'll lay just about anywhere - given the opportunity. but free-ranging gets me what I (and the folks at church) believe are better, richer, tastier eggs. I don't raise chickens for meat, so I don't know what to tell you if that's your game.
But a combination of cooping them 'till 10AM or so, works best for us on both counts as they tend to rest up all night, lay early in the day (except Sadie) and free-range 'till near dark.
Location of the coop may be a consideration - esp in the Winter Months. If you want to 'electrify it for some reason (Automatic door? Motion Sensor Lighting?) or water automatically. Or simply having to get to the eggs and get the feed and fill the feeders and fil the water containers. And, if you're a 'showcase' home, well you'll want an esthecctically pleasing pullet palace on your lawn.

Thanks, I think I mentioned it in the thread somewhere, but we have every type of predator imaginable here. My location shows in my profile - upstate New York. A guy from the energy company who was over on a service call said a mink killed his brother's entire flock in one night. So we need strong hardware cloth with small holes. However, I'm originally from California and have only been here one year and that's why we're literally learning as we go, not only about chickens, but about the area. Our chickens are pets and we eventually hope for eggs. I wish we were more handy, but we've tried a lot and don't seem to have much success with those skills. Hopefully we'll get better, but it's slow.