FFA Project - Winter Hoop Coop - Questions about ventilation and flooring

[MLay]

My son is working on his FFA SAE (Supervised Agricultural Experience) and has been doing quite well with egg sales. He has expanded and now as he prepares for winter, he needs adequate housing to replace the mobile tractors he has been using.

Due to costs, a hoop house is the choice but living in Missouri, ventilation and wet ground are our issues. We have had many family discussions on how to ventilate and how to manage the ground.

There will be 30 hens in a hoop house and we are planning a on a 8x20 house that will be where they roost at night and lay eggs. They will have access to their summer hoop house to free range inside during the days if they choose. Both hoop houses will be stationary for the winter unless we get a dry spell and good weather and can move them.

Questions.
1. Are 2 generous vents, one on each end, enough ventilation? They will also have a chicken door open during the day. Should we try to put a vent in middle? If so, any ideas on how to do this and prevent leaks?
2. We live in Missouri and have read hog panels are sturdier for a snow load than reg cattle panels - does anyone have any thoughts on this?
3. In Missouri, we battle wet ground. We are considering building a wooden frame and filling it about 1/3 gravel and the rest with soil. (think raised bed). We would attach the panels to the wood frame to try to keep the birds off of the ground and away from the wet soil. The area we are considering is well drained but it is Missouri and we can go weeks in a sloppy, muddy mess.
4. We've also read about putting a shelter inside the hoop house for the birds to roost in that keeps them away from the plastic/tarps so they are dry. The one we read about was a roost that was in a long 3-sided box (bottom, back and top but no front). It was supposed to keep the birds dry and provide an additional layer of protection on bitterly cold nights. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks for you help. We are trying to be frugal and safe but mostly teach our son to be responsible for the care of his animals.

 

[Fanci Feathers Marans]

Here's some ideas. I live in Missouri, too. Frankly, I think you will have to worry about mud more than snow. If you put plastic over top of it, it should slide right off.
I would use the deep litter method. Maybe moving the pen once a year if possible. Hog panels sound fine.

 

[aart]

2. We live in Missouri and have read hog panels are sturdier for a snow load than reg cattle panels - does anyone have any thoughts on this?

They are indeed, have built 2, one with hog panels one with cattle panels.
Hog panels are definitely stiffer due to many more 'rods'.

Here's some ideas.

What book is that?

 

[Fanci Feathers Marans]

They are indeed, have built 2, one with hog panels one with cattle panels.
Hog panels are definitely stiffer due to many more 'rods'.

What book is that?

I use it a lot.

 

[The Brick Coop]

Agree with the snow sliding off. It slides off our "yurt"/dome fabric-on-pipe frame coop. Ventilation is so important especially in wet areas. What about using all gravel instead of adding soil, use like a 2a modified that packs well...Or raised floor throughout, on posts, like Wonderboard (on a wood frame) with a thin concrete layer on top--or even just plywood coated with concrete--you could then pressure-wash it. Our turkey house-&-run is up off the ground with this kind of floor and is easy to scrape or pressure-wash. The cats sometimes hang out under there when it rains.

 

[aart]

I use it a lot.

Most the coop plan books I've seen are filled with cute, clever but too small coops....can get some ideas but wouldn't follow the plans verbatim, add a good dose of common sense and other research.

What about using all gravel

Gravel can will eventually become saturated with pulverized poops and reek when it gets wet. Best to divert any run off away from coop and run and/or add dirt to raise ground level above area that floods or holds excessive water.

 

[Fanci Feathers Marans]

Most the coop plan books I've seen are filled with cute, clever but too small coops....can get some ideas but wouldn't follow the plans verbatim, add a good dose of common sense and other research.

Gravel can will eventually become saturated with pulverized poops and reek when it gets wet. Best to divert any run off away from coop and run and/or add dirt to raise ground level above area that floods or holds excessive water.

Right. Sometimes I wish I could find just one with gigantic coops. Of course building that would cost $$$, but hey.

And a tip I lernt: when designing a coop, imagine yourself cleaning it in the rain and the snow and the mud. Now, what adjustments would you make? So many coops are made with the image of sunshine and singing birds in the designer's head.

Good for you, OP, for being worried about snow and mud.

 

[Kellycbf]

Use mulch instead of dirt in the run. Start acquiring the mulch now, free from tree services. Put the mulch right over the dirt.