Coccidia, gleet, parasites? Help me please

JeepzPeepz

Chirping
Aug 5, 2022
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Hey all. Seems the only time I get on here is when I have yet another problem. Am I dealing with coccidia, gleet, parasites, or something else? I have three eight-month-old hens, who started laying about two months ago, and there’s been no significant drop. This morning I noticed one in particular had a VERY dirty butt. Upon further examination, they all had much grosser butts than I had realized. Today they weren’t eating much, but appetites seem to have picked up a bit, and all three have eaten. There is an odd, foul smell coming from the slightly inflamed vent of one bird. This makes me think gleet. But they ALL have the same symptoms to some extent. Could they all have gleet at the same time? One hen seems curious about another hen’s dirty vent, but she’s not “pecking” per se. A vet and other diagnostics are out of reach for now. Any suggestions are welcome. Here’s some info that is probably pertinent:

-They were doing the “sick chicken hunch” for a bit throughout the day, and have certainly looked pale and lethargic. Still interested in scratching about the yard though

-Poops are a bit runny, and I feel like I’ve seen more cecal poop today than usual. Very dark greenish in color

-They are in a crappy TSC prefab coop until spring, but it doesn’t leak and it’s not particularly drafty.

-They eat Layena crumbles

-Dealing with a mite infestationunsure if I’ve made much of any progress in the problem. Using Ivermectin on the birds, and permethrin dust in the coop. ***I DID dust vents, bellys, and under wings about two nights ago***

-I have not started any treatment yet, but I have Corid on hand.

-They are not vaxxed, never been wormed, or on any med/supplement aside from the Ivermectin (pour on back of neck skin, under feathers) once a week or so.

Any ideas are welcome. One of the birds seem to have lost some weight, and I’m worried. These are pets, and I love them dearly.


Sorry for all the photos. Wasn’t sure what may be helpful, so I gave y’all everything I was able to snap today.
 

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Can you get a picture of the one you suspect is "gleet" ... The pictures of the vents look ok to me just dirty.

Your should start the Corid, it won't hurt either way.
1) Corid 9.6% - 2 tsp to a gallon of water, 5 - 7 days, no egg withdrawal then 1/2 tsp 7 - 14 days (offer for 5days, then again in 2weeks for 3days - then give vitamins).
**** See Document Files ****
When treating a bird for coccidiosis one can give an oral drench in addition to their medicated water. Here are the instructions (5 - 7 days):
Corid 9.6% liquid - Do not dilut
Corid 20% powder - Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon powder with gallon water.


When you say ... "Ivermectin (pour on back of neck skin, under feathers) once a week or so." How much are you meaning?
My notes say ...
1) Ivermectin (round, thread gape & external parasites) - 1 drop at neck/chicks, 3 drops/bantam, 4 drops lite weight, 5 drops/lrg bird, 6 drops/heavy bird, repeat 14 days, 8wk withdrawal
2) Ivermectin pour on 5mg per ml dosage is 0.1 ml per every 2 pounds of weight or 0.05 ml per pound. Apply to back of neck over spine. Repeat that in 14 days. Most pharmacies will give you a free 1 ml needle-less syringe for giving medications if you ask.
Personally I'd treat the coop, nest boxes with the Permethrin Spray (dilution), you can even spray the hens. How long have you been treating? You dusted the coop, have you done the nest boxes?

Are they eating their feed? Drinking water? Are you feeding anything "green"? Do they free range?
 
Can you get a picture of the one you suspect is "gleet" ... The pictures of the vents look ok to me just dirty.

Your should start the Corid, it won't hurt either way.
1) Corid 9.6% - 2 tsp to a gallon of water, 5 - 7 days, no egg withdrawal then 1/2 tsp 7 - 14 days (offer for 5days, then again in 2weeks for 3days - then give vitamins).
**** See Document Files ****
When treating a bird for coccidiosis one can give an oral drench in addition to their medicated water. Here are the instructions (5 - 7 days):
Corid 9.6% liquid - Do not dilut
Corid 20% powder - Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon powder with gallon water.


When you say ... "Ivermectin (pour on back of neck skin, under feathers) once a week or so." How much are you meaning?
My notes say ...
1) Ivermectin (round, thread gape & external parasites) - 1 drop at neck/chicks, 3 drops/bantam, 4 drops lite weight, 5 drops/lrg bird, 6 drops/heavy bird, repeat 14 days, 8wk withdrawal
2) Ivermectin pour on 5mg per ml dosage is 0.1 ml per every 2 pounds of weight or 0.05 ml per pound. Apply to back of neck over spine. Repeat that in 14 days. Most pharmacies will give you a free 1 ml needle-less syringe for giving medications if you ask.
Personally I'd treat the coop, nest boxes with the Permethrin Spray (dilution), you can even spray the hens. How long have you been treating? You dusted the coop, have you done the nest boxes?

Are they eating their feed? Drinking water? Are you feeding anything "green"? Do they free range?
For the ivermectin, those are the exact instructions I’ve been following. I’ve been treating the coop (and nest boxes inside) for about three weeks now. I used Martins 10%, diluted accordingly, for the first two coop/bird treatments, but it didn’t seem to help much at all. I was able to get some dust about a week ago, and that seems to be helping more. Honestly, I’m not sure what is or isn’t working. I suspected mites for a while due to ratty feathers, and OBSESSIVELY spent about 8 hours every weekend looking for any sign of mites in coop or on birds. The final indicator I had that there was a problem was when my birds suddenly stopped putting themselves to bed in the coop, and were trying to sleep on the ground in the run. That’s when I started using the Martins, and the next day I saw two adult mites evacuating the coop. Aside from young-looking mites on the ramp leading into the coop, I’ve seen no more, but I know they MUST be there.

They have been eating and drinking normally, except for yesterday morning when they seemed more uninterested in their feed than usual, and I couldn’t get them to drink much. By evening, they seemed to be eating and drinking normally again.

I haven’t fed anything green lately. They get supervised free-range in the yard on the weekends.

Phew, sorry this reply was so long!
 
For the ivermectin, those are the exact instructions I’ve been following. I’ve been treating the coop (and nest boxes inside) for about three weeks now. I used Martins 10%, diluted accordingly, for the first two coop/bird treatments, but it didn’t seem to help much at all. I was able to get some dust about a week ago, and that seems to be helping more. Honestly, I’m not sure what is or isn’t working. I suspected mites for a while due to ratty feathers, and OBSESSIVELY spent about 8 hours every weekend looking for any sign of mites in coop or on birds. The final indicator I had that there was a problem was when my birds suddenly stopped putting themselves to bed in the coop, and were trying to sleep on the ground in the run. That’s when I started using the Martins, and the next day I saw two adult mites evacuating the coop. Aside from young-looking mites on the ramp leading into the coop, I’ve seen no more, but I know they MUST be there.

They have been eating and drinking normally, except for yesterday morning when they seemed more uninterested in their feed than usual, and I couldn’t get them to drink much. By evening, they seemed to be eating and drinking normally again.

I haven’t fed anything green lately. They get supervised free-range in the yard on the weekends.

Phew, sorry this reply was so long!
Forgot to attach a photo of the bird(s) in question. Couldn’t get a photo, but I do have a video from last night. The bird with the messiest, foul-smelling butt is the bird all the way to the left, closest to the white wall.

 
Why were you treating the chickens with Ivermectin and where did you find that particular dosage? It seems excessive. Ivermectin is toxic to chickens in more than a couple drops one time, and another similar dose at two weeks from the first.

It would be wise to treat for coccidiosis. No harm if they don't have it. Corid is merely a thiamine blocker, not an antibiotic.

As for gleet, if these birds somehow have eaten moldy fruit or veggies or moldy bread or cheese, yes, it can cause vent gleet and worse. One way to treat vent gleet is to do an Epsom salt flush or use copper sulfate in the water for a week.
 
Why were you treating the chickens with Ivermectin and where did you find that particular dosage? It seems excessive. Ivermectin is toxic to chickens in more than a couple drops one time, and another similar dose at two weeks from the first.

It would be wise to treat for coccidiosis. No harm if they don't have it. Corid is merely a thiamine blocker, not an antibiotic.

As for gleet, if these birds somehow have eaten moldy fruit or veggies or moldy bread or cheese, yes, it can cause vent gleet and worse. One way to treat vent gleet is to do an Epsom salt flush or use copper sulfate in the water for a week.
Thank you for your reply :bow
 
They were doing the “sick chicken hunch” for a bit throughout the day, and have certainly looked pale and lethargic. Still interested in scratching about the yard though

-Poops are a bit runny, and I feel like I’ve seen more cecal poop today than usual. Very dark greenish in color

Dealing with a mite infestationunsure if I’ve made much of any progress in the problem. Using Ivermectin on the birds, and permethrin dust in the coop. ***I DID dust vents, bellys, and under wings about two nights ago***
Do you have a compost pile?

Dark dirt = dark poop

If you are having a lice problem/mite problem and struggling to rid the birds of them. Treat housing and birds in 5 day intervals with Permethrin.
Dust the birds and spray the housing. Make sure the housing litter is cleaned out, dispose of the litter, do not compost it or place it in the yard somewhere, the mites will reinfest.
Make sure to get dust around the vents, under the wings, etc. working the dust down through the feathers all the way to the skin. I put dust in a sock and use like a powder puff, easy to control and apply.
 

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