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It may be serious.. I've seen reports on here that indicate such. https://the-chicken-chick.com/protecting-chickens-from-killer-black-flies-buffalo-gnats/ Some useful info.. https://blog.mcmurrayhatchery.com/2023/05/01/mcmurray-hatchery-alert-black-fly-buffalo-gnat-poultry-deaths/ I'd...

Please note my prior statements are regarding face, wattles, and comb.. coupled with the pics that were posted and questions being asked.. But angry red skin below the vent or on the abdomen or anywhere else that should be light pink or yellowish (even greyish depending on breed) is or can be...

They'll all turn red, just at differnt rates. Sometimes it can be an early indicator of gender. While other times it can be temperature or excitement flushing while juvenile. And as they get a little older it can be a sign of laying hormones starting to set in on the gals.. usually a good 4...

Turning is especially crucial in the early stages of incubation and less so in the later.. according to my current understanding and all the research I've done. My actual experience hatching is that sometimes we mess it all up and life still finds a way! :fl

Depending on age and if they're a henny feathered breed like seabrite or not.. the saddle feathers will be gender specific. The cockerels and roosters are still significantly larger/taller combed than the pullets and hens.. and will still turn fully red (not to be confused with temperature or...

That's not Marek's.. which takes at least 3 weeks after exposure before ANY symptoms can be seen. I agree with the first two assessments (full crop, feather picking) and am unsure of the the 3rd due to placement and inability to truly make anything out visually. The NN is obvious.. but the...

Hello and welcome to BYC! :frow Sorry one of your birds is having difficulty and experiencing paralysis. :( Sounds like Marek's is a possibility and since the vaccine is not 100% effective at HIDING the symptoms and it does NOT prevent the disease nor do symptoms effect entire flocks in the...

Hi, welcome to BYC! :frow This increases fat significantly.. and possibly some vitamins or things like linoleeic acid etc.. but not protein. The breakdown looks pretty close to 15% protein from most sources.. https://shop.purinamills.com/products/purina-black-oil-sunflower-wild-bird-food...

My coffee also comes in a "resealable" container.. but it's nitrogen flushed before I open it.. which prevents oxygen from interacting with the contents. It quickly oxidizes and degrades thereafter. The 1000 dose vial is what keeps many small hatchers from vaccinating. If the cost is worth it...

In the right amount.. increased carcass and egg weight, harder shells. In the wrong amounts.. increased diarrhea, soft shells, metabolic alkilosis, and maybe dehydration or death IF water is restricted.. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/1327426/...

Based on your answer and your prior experience being good enough to go back.. along with the many things I've seen breeding and hatching.. I agree with post #4 that it's possibly still just funky juvenile plumage.. but also note that not everything that hatches will be show or breeding quality...

What color were they being sold as? Did you see pictures of the parent stock? What do the birds from your previous hatch look like? Do you have pics of those?

Sometimes there's a deficiency in the hatching egg.. very often a dose of poultry nutridrench, if you're in the US and can get it, is highly recommended for THIS purpose according to my personal experience. But in a pinch even the sugar water/electrolytes suggested above is better than nothing...

When I was serious about breeding and hatching and had nutrition and all other details dialed in.. It became evident that genetically speaking one of my hens needed more nutrition than the rest to produce viable HATCHING eggs. Using something like Rooster Booster brand Poultry Cell.. might be...

Feather shape doesn't matter at this age, usually closer to 10-12 weeks.. comb and wattle color and development are the best indicators still. Feather color pattern also say pullet. I'd say pullet.

Who me?! :oops: (Partly poking fun at the truth) I'm not sure of anything.. and edited my post to reflect that all posts made are according to my current understanding at the time they were posted. Anyways.. it was useful information.. from an otherwise reliable source.. having read other...

This is only true if the it was a fast feathering sire cross slow feathering dame.. direction matters.. http://en.aviagen.com/assets/Tech_Center/BB_Resources_Tools/AA_How_Tos/AA-How-to-11-FeatherSexDayOldChicks-EN-17.pdf ETA: according to my current understanding.. for everything at the time...

Looks like it *may* be a cockerel if it's the one up front as that's a good size comb. Which one is crowing? The Orp is a pullet!

These things will damage good tissue when used continually after the initial flushing.. according to my current understanding. Keeping away infection but possibly also preventing healing. *Maybe* triple antibiotic ointment would be a better choice?? Can you see the opening? Is it still vital...

Hello and welcome to BYC! :frow Please describe make and model of your incubator, is it circulated or still air? Are your vents open? Pics are nice. Maybe even the candled eggs you're still wondering about? Also describe your incubation temperature and humidity and how these were measured...