Since you are unable to make much costs and make the right improvements I would give it a try in another direction. Are there any friends, neighbours or relatives (like fit retired people) who would like to help you?
Some city people, love to work outside in their spare time if there is no...
Is this your setup?
IMG_8812.jpeg
871.6 KB · Views: 8
Just adding a few ideas/comments to the previous reactions.
^^ If this is your coop it looks as if it is not safe. The maze of the hwc is way too large to keep small predators out. Good you want a new coop/run! For as long as you don’t...
Very informative article on adding new chicks to an existing flock.
Two things missing imho.
If you have a small group of chicks with a broody, integration is of no concern if you have enough space and clutter. In general the mother defends the chicks and the chicks search protection with the...
:hugs💜💙🧡🩷💚
Thanks for sharing Blances story.
One thing I didn’t understand.
If they arrived as pullets they can’t have been ex-bats. They must have been older hens or young laying hybrids.
Maybe the pine shaving are not good?
Use other bedding, old towels or paper towels.
Some other ideas:
Give water with electrolytes. Put a drop on your finger and keep it against the chicks beak.
There are recipes to make water with electrolytes (cup of boiled water, tsp honey or sugar/ pinch...
I find it weird to extract seamon for backyard chickens and hobbyists who are breeding with chickens.
If you want chicks from one of your roosters, make it possible that only he will fertilise your hens. Put them in a seperate coop and run and gather eggs after 3 weeks. Mark the eggs (date)...
In my country prices vary.
For the commercial brown and white laying hybrids at point of lay they often ask between €10 and €15.
€ 15-20 are normal prices for second choice selections from breeders (with flaws) and most barnyard chickens. 6-8 week old chicks/pullets are often sold for half the...
Mine love cool foot baths in summer when its very warm.
Add a second ‘coop’ or make an extension with just a roof and hardware cloth (hwc) at 3/4 sides. Make a roost, poop board and nestbox in it and let the chickens chose were to sleep. Put the nestbox in a shady spot or add reflection foil...
A dustbath area is a must have in any coop/run.
And did you look into Northern fowl mite? @TwoCrows is more of an expert than I am.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/mites-lice-and-fleas-dealing-with-external-parasites.74599/
You say it isn’t scaly leg mite.
I doesn’t look like feather lice.
Red mites are not during the day on a chicken (unless you have a very bad infestation).
So I think its dirt. But not sure.
I advice you to look into some articles about lice. Like this one...
I have no experience with bumblefoot. But there is an article with good ratings about the subject and treatment.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/science-and-treatment-for-bumblefoot-footpad-dermatitis.76278/
Maybe you find an answer in it?
Yes! I just ordered one. The name is
CHICKCOZY, costs about $143 and it has good reviews on a Belgium site.
You can use google or ChatGPT to translate.
Maybe its stress and wrong human behaviour that triggers the rooster to attack.
Much more room in the coop and run or free ranging can help a lot. If you are attached to him I would give him a second chance. If not, then culling is probably the easiest solution.
If possible keep him...
He is the leader of the flock. Its his task to protect and distribute the food. Dont pass him and give food to your hens. Give it to your rooster.
Read some stuff about roosters in the article section. Shadrach wrote a few good articles on roosters.
I just ordered a Chickencozy auto door for my mini coop for Tintin, my bantam chick (cockerel). He should stay in this tiny coop in the morning to avoid that he is going to make too much noise in the neighbourhood before 8.30 on weekdays and 9.30 in the weekends.
Hope this auto chicken door wil...